CUSP A TE FORELANDS AT BAY OF QUINTE 



12 



the waves traveling obliquely toward the shore are, not symmet- 

 rically and systematically retarded. The wave does not advance 

 on the shore parallel to its front but comes up obliquely (see 

 Fig. 9). The result is that the gravel was moved obliquely up 

 the slope of the beach, and then obliquely downward with the 

 return of the wave, but always with a resultant in a direction 



liHMMMI 



Fig. 9. — ^ Showing the relation of the wave-fronts to the serrate margin of the 

 east side of Fish Point Foreland. 



parallel to the shore. During the period of observation the 

 debris moved along the long curve of the cusplets very rapidly, 

 and then, when discharged into the deepest water at the free end, 

 would either fall at once to the bottom, or might happen to reach 

 the end just in time to be carried across the intervening space by 

 the rush of the less retarded part of the wave which had not yet 

 reached shore. Material would thus be rolled along the long 

 slope by the breaking edge of the wave, but, when discharged at 

 the free end, it was often bodily carried several feet past the 



