76 Reviews — D. W. Freshfield — Round Kanchenjnnga. 



iipper part of this immense mer de glace, which placed them face 

 to face with its precipitous eastern cliffs. At that time it would 

 seem that one of their possible objectives was to cross a depression 

 in the northern arete, known as the Nepal gap, 21,000 feet, and so 

 <lescend on the western or Nepal side. All these hopes were 

 frustrated by an unprecedented snowstorm, and ultimately they 

 had to make a long detour north-eastwards into the Lhonak valley, 

 where the lines of the landscape are those of an ice-protected region. 

 " The gentle, smooth surfaces of the lower slopes are obviously 

 due to their long protection by snow and ice from the destructive 

 agencies of air and water, and the rapid alternations of frost and 

 heat that have carved out the loftier ridges and deeper valleys 

 further south. It is a land of moraines, the monuments of departed 

 or diminished glaciers. Their vast dykes stretch along the hill- 

 sides or cross the valley's, enclosing flats that were first glacier-basins 

 and afterwards lake-basins." Further on he says of the Lhonak 

 landscape : " The rock surfaces are protected by a coverlet of snow, 

 formerly permanent, even now raised only for a few weeks in the 

 year. The action of water is consequently insignificant. The 

 process of valley formation is checked, and the hillsides are scored 

 by no deep lateral ravines." This is a valuable lesson in rock 

 erosion which geologists may gladly accept from so experienced 

 a mountaineer as Mr. Freshfield. 



After toilsome journeyings in this region the party began to 

 approach the continuation of the northern ridge or arete of Kanchen- 

 gunja, taking to the ice once more at a considerable elevation, and 

 gradually working their way upwards until they attained a height 

 of 20,207 feet on the Jonsong La, on whose further side they had 

 their first peep into Nepal. This was the supreme moment. It 

 was doubtful if their native guide had ever been there before, whilst 

 the prospect on the western side of the pass had all the appearance 

 of an appalling cul de sac, whose possible outlet was completely 

 concealed by the sinuosities of its containing walls. " Lasciate 

 ogni speranza voi, che'ntrate" might well have been the feeling 

 of some members of the expedition, but the stern determination of 

 the leader prevailed, and down they all went into the abyss. 



They were presently rewarded, however, by a view of the north- 

 western face of Kanchenjunga, hitherto unseen by European eyes. 

 " From this point of view," the author says, " as from all others, except 

 the Guicha La, it appears as a colossal screen ; but here, in place of 

 gigantic rock precipices, it shows a snowy face." Continuing their 

 descent, they obtained evidence that the gorge they were traversing 

 had an opening into the lower world, and they ultimately encamped 

 at an angle known as Pangperma, where they found themselves 

 face to face with the glacier which descends directly from Kanchen- 

 junga and joins the one by whose course they had come down. 

 From this point was obtained the famous panoramic photograph 

 which faces p. 172, and which may be regarded as a complete 

 picture of the Kanchenjunga group as seen from the north-west. 

 Continuing down the gorge of the Kangchen river, they passed from 

 the U-shaped valley of ice erosion into the V-shaped valley of water 



