62 SCIENTIFIC SURVEY OF LEICESTER AND DISTRICT 
In the early periods of the trade each of the three knitting 
counties tended to specialise in the use of a particular material. As time 
went on, however, this distinction disappeared, although traces of its 
effect still exist. ‘Thus as finer counts of cotton and silk could be spun, 
stockings of finer gauge were made in increasing quantities in Nottingham- 
shire and Derby, and this tendency still holds in a lesser degree to-day. 
Similarly, as fancy hosiery is more often made of wool, that trade increased 
more rapidly in Leicester than elsewhere. To-day practically all textile 
materials are used for knitting—viz., cotton, wool, silk, rayon, acetate silk, 
and, to some extent, flax, ramie and camel-hair. Modern hosiery yarns 
differ considerably from those used in weaving, in that they have less 
‘twist’ and more fullness. Australian, Cape and Argentine wools are 
largely used, owing to their peculiar properties, although a certain amount 
of wool is spun in Leicester itself. Other yarns are spun in Yorkshire 
(wool), Lancashire (cotton), Warwickshire and Derbyshire (artificial silk), 
raw cotton is obtained chiefly from the U.S.A., Egypt, India, Brazil and 
Peru, and silk is imported from Japan and Italy. 
In the purchase of these raw materials spinners do not as a rule 
approach manufacturers directly, but through agents. The latter call 
periodically on manufacturers, and may each represent a number of 
spinners. Orders for yarns are usually placed ‘ firm,’ although orders 
for knitted goods are subject to cancellation. This system is somewhat 
disconcerting to manufacturers, but is said to have its compensations in 
regard to early placements of orders, and is still in being. The method 
of payment usually provides for one month’s credit and a cash discount. 
The prices of yarns vary, of course, with fluctuations in raw material 
prices or tops. Hence a certain amount of speculation exists, and 
manufacturers follow raw material prices, crop reports, etc., with interest 
if not always with profit. 
The cycle of processes involved in manufacture depends upon the type 
of garment to be produced. For our present purpose, however, we may 
regard the following operations as constituting the customary succession : 
(a) Winding (and in some cases warping). 
(6) Knitting (circular, seamless, fashioned). 
(c) Seaming, linking, welting (closing operations). 
(d) Cutting out and machining (making-up operations). 
Mending is carried out on rough fabric and also on dressed fabric or 
goods. Scouring, dyeing, or bleaching and finishing may be carried out 
either on a fabric before it is cut out or after goods have been knitted to 
shape and seamed. 
All goods are subsequently taken to the warehouse and paired (if 
necessary), folded, stamped, etc., and boxed ready for sale. 
The machines used in the manufacture of hosiery do not require a large 
amount of power. Formerly gas, steam or oil engines were used, but 
modern practice prefers the electric drive. One horse-power is sufficient 
to drive eight sewing machines, four to six seamless hose machines, or 
three fabric machines. In some cases the motor is incorporated with 
the machine, but generally small groups of machines are driven from orie 
