58 TiMEHRI. 



the sensation of the cool sea breeze on passing the Bocas 

 made one feel a profound compassion for those left 

 behind in the reeking atmosphere of Port-of-Spain, the 

 captain remarking "Ah doctor, this breeze will soon 

 chase away your malaria and aching pains." Although 

 the accommodation below was all that could be desired 

 it was rather close, and so the steward kindly made a 

 bed on deck ; this gave me a chance of watching the 

 coast line, which is a continuous chain of high mountains 

 and a sure guide to mariners, very different from the East 

 Coast of Trinidad with its) sunken rocks and absence of 

 lighthouse, and also from Demerara where the lead-line 

 has to be kept going all night and nothing of the shore can 

 be seen but the tops of palm trees or sugar fa6lory chim- 

 neys. 



At 5 a.m. we ran into the anchorage of Carupano 

 in company with the French Packet. The first impression 

 of the town was certainly not favourable, although it 

 improves on acquaintance. There is a good embarca- 

 dere (covered) and plenty of business in shipping cacao 

 and importing dried fish, etc., (principally from Marga- 

 rita). The fish seem to be the staple food of the 

 agricultural labourers in Venezuela and pack animals 

 are loading up with it all day long for the interior. There 

 is a large Custom House and staff of very polite officers, 

 a shabby looking Resguardo or Guard-house with about 

 20 or 30 young fellows (soldiers) seated on long benches 

 in front, each with a mauser rifle in his hand, a uniform 

 cap, shirt and trousers, and barefooted. An officer a 

 little in advance is seated on a cane-bottomed chair, with 

 a sword in a much battered scabbard and a red sash 

 twisted around it in his hand, also with a uniform cap 



