Margarita. ji 



went through Tacarigua where everyone not at work in 

 the fields was busily employing in weaving hammocks or 

 plaiting the little cheap straw hats familiar with us. After 

 a few miles of the same mixed cultivation, tobacco, black- 

 eye peas, canes, etc., we reached "El Norte" built 

 on a terrace some height above the sea level, it ranks 

 only as a pueblo or village but has a fine old church 

 in the centre, and good substantial houses, a fine 

 aquaduft, gardens, and fine fruit trees. It is a cool quiet 

 place well suited for persons with shattered nerves and 

 broken health, I was rather surprised at a custom my com- 

 panion told me was quite chief, which was riding into 

 houses and remaining in the saddle talking to the ladies, 

 without dismounting, in what might correspond to the 

 saloon or drawing room with us, but it must be taken 

 into account that the apartments are vast and paved with 

 tiles. I was introduced to the Abbe, who started to 

 address me in French with great volubility, but even- 

 tually broke down and resorted to his native tongue. 

 Spanish alone is understood in this country by gentry 

 and peasants alike and it is impossible to get on without 

 understanding it. Continuing our route the roadside 

 was very freely dotted with little wooden crosses; they 

 stand for patriots shot there in the fights of old ; everv 

 one uncovers in passing. Another feature in this land of 

 the faithful is a well-kept, trim little chapel inviting way- 

 arers to enter and worship a fragment of the Holy Cross 

 presented therein. And now we pass the famous or 

 rather infamous Lacuna Salada, surely a disgrace 

 to the Island, as a paved causeway might so easily be 

 made ; as it is you sink every now and then into mud 

 as black zi ink. It was not very bad when we passed. 



