NORWICH AND DISTRICT INDUSTRIES 93 
Again, 1931 provided our manufacturers with an opportunity not to be 
lost. When Great Britain went off the gold standard the supply of im- 
ported footwear was naturally restricted. ‘This opportunity was seized 
and the shoemen of the city found themselves supplying for the home 
market the better quality of the shoes previously imported from the 
U.S.A. and the Continent. The imposition of tariffs in turn assisted in 
consolidating this position. 
A few words must be said of the processes used. Norwich was the 
home of the ladies’ Louis heel trade and continues to hold its own in this 
respect. Again, the Turnshoe principle is another unique characteristic 
of Norwich craftsmanship. It is of interest to note that these shoes are 
made ‘ inside out,’ there being no inner sole inside the shoe. The sole 
on the flesh side is channelled in a way peculiar to turnshoe work, the upper 
being sewn direct to the sole through this channel, after which the shoes 
are turned the right side out and re-lasted, bringing the shoe to its proper 
formation. This production is famed for lightness, flexibility and 
comfort. 
The technical methods of manufacturing known as Machine-sewn, 
Littleway, Welted and Veldtschoen are extensively used. 
Machine-sewn (McKay) and Littleway shoes are made in the following 
way. A leather inner sole is attached in three places to the last (the last 
is the model of the foot). The upper is then-placed over the last and 
‘lasted ’ to the inner sole. In the case of machine-sewn shoes tacks are 
used to secure the upper, whereas in Littleway a stapling method is 
adopted. ‘The cavity between the outer edge of the upper is filled with 
water-proofing material, the sole properly channelled is then attached. 
The last is withdrawn and the shoe passes to the sole sewing machine, 
which sews firmly together the sole through the channel, the upper and 
the inner sole. The channel is then solutioned and laid. After bottom- 
levelling the shoe is passed to the Louis-heeling department for the recep- 
tion of the heel. It passes thence to the finishing room, where the sole 
is scoured and coloured to suit the particular design required. 
In the case of welted shoes, the inner sole is channelled in a way peculiar 
to this class of footwear. The upper is lasted to the inner sole in a similar 
way. ‘The welt is then sewn through the upper and inner sole channel. 
After bottom filling the soles are attached by means of solution and after- 
wards stitched to the welt by fine decorative stitching. Heel attaching 
follows, likewise the necessary finishing operations. 
In the case of Veldtschoen, as the name implies this type in its early 
days was closely associated with the South African market. The upper, 
instead of being lasted over towards the inside of the shoe, as is the case 
of the foregoing processes, is lasted to the outside and fastened through 
the sole by means of a row of stitches. It can, therefore, be visualised 
that with the complete absence of the inner sole the shoe is extremely 
light and flexible, admirably suited for children’s wear. 
It should also be mentioned that the uppers of these exquisitely made 
shoes are cut from every known light leather, including reptile skins, and 
every conceivable shade and colour of glacé kids, calfs and suéde leathers. 
As our early city traders of the weaving industry planted the name of 
