130 The National Geographic Magazine 



"The Santo Domingo of today .. 



prises a chief residence, a habitation for 

 the aduana (customs office), a smaller 

 house occupied by a minor branch of the 

 family, a church with horseshoe-shape 

 bell arch, and three or four shops and 

 stables, all of adobe, flat-roofed and one 

 low story high ; besides, there is an 

 abandoned ore mill of half a dozen steam- 

 driven arrastres, while half a dozen 

 Papago Indian huts form the customary 

 "lower town." The rancho is large, 

 skilfull3' irrigated, and so productive that 

 corrals and sheds are filled with vigor- 

 ous stock and abundant grain-hay and 

 barley. The nearest low spur of Sierra 

 Sonoyta better attests the antiquity of 

 the settlement than the few houses and 

 inhabitants ; for there the evangelists 

 and their civil successors have laid seven 

 or eight generations of their dead in 

 cross-marked sepulchres, while hard by 

 lies the much more populous cemetery 

 of the Papago dependents — those of the 

 pagan dead in the form of a ki (house), 

 but built of stones and strewn with the 

 bones of sacrificed horses ; those of the 



converts in similar 

 form, though built of 

 earth and decently 

 marked with crosses 

 outlined in pebbles. 

 At both residence and 

 aduana the ethnologic 

 expedition was wel- 

 comed and supported 

 by Don Bartolo Orte- 

 ga (in the temporary 

 absence of the eldest 

 brother), as well as by 

 the local customs offi- 

 cer, Seiior Garcias, 

 the way having been 

 made easy by the 

 courteous prevision of 

 Mexican authorities.* 



ON THE WAY WEST- 

 WARD 



. ." On November 15, 



1900, a six -mule 



wagon carrying all the casks and kegs 



* His Excellency Manuel de Aspiroz, the 

 Mexican Ambassador at Washington, and Ex- 

 cellencia Fernando Deal, Secretario de Fo- 

 mento, in Mexico, were on this occasion, as on 

 others, most liberal and obliging in furnishing 

 authorit}' for the international ethnologic 

 work, while the Mexican authorities at Nogales 

 were so generous as to send a representative 

 to Phoenix, and thence with the expedition to 

 Santo Domingo. The party comprised W J 

 McGee, in charge ; De Lancej' Gill, artist ; 

 Professor R. H. Forbes, of Tucson, a guest dur- 

 ing part of the expedition ; John J. Carroll and 

 Jim Moberly, stockmen ; Aurelio Mata, Mexi- 

 can customs officer, and Ramon Zapeda, Mexi- 

 can interpreter, with Hugh Norris, Papago in- 

 terpreter. The entire route was from Phoenix 

 to Gila Bend ; thence via Ajo to Ouitobaquito 

 and Santo Domingo ; thence to Sonoyta and 

 southward via Ouitobac, Cozon, and Das Tajitas 

 to Caborca ; next westward to the Gulf shore 

 (at the point recently occupied by the now ex- 

 tinct Tepoka tribe), and thence back, niainlj^' 

 by new routes, to Santo Domingo. From this 

 point the old Yuma trail was traversed to 

 Tinajas Altas, and thence via Gila City, to 

 Yuma, whence the expedition pushed on to the 

 Cocopa country, near the movith of Colorado 

 river, afterward returning via Yuma and the 

 Gila valley to Phoenix. 



