148 I. C. Mussell — Expedition to Mount St. Elias. 



After reaching the western bank of the glacier, we made our 

 way to the base of the precipice up which we had previously 

 wished to climb. In order to reach it, however, we had to throw 

 our packs across a crevasse over which there was no bridge, and 

 followed them by jumping. The side of the crevasse from which 

 we sprang was higher than its opposite lip, and left us very un- 

 certain as to how we were to return ; but that was a matter for 

 the future ; our aim at the time was to ascend the glacier, and 

 the return was of no immediate concern. 



Reaching the base of the cliff at the side of the glacier, we 

 ascended it without great cliflLiculty, and came out uj)on the broad 

 plateau of snow above. Thinking that the way onward would 

 be easier along the steep snow-slope bordering the glacier, we 

 made an effort to ascend in that direction, and spent two or 

 three precious hours in trying to find a practicable route. 

 Although the crevasses were fewer than on the glacier proper, 

 yet they were of larger size and had but few bridges. At last 

 we came to a wide gulf on the opposite side of which there was 

 a perpendicular wall of snow a hundred feet high, and all further 

 advance in that direction was stopped. Although obliged to 

 turn back, our elevated position commanded a good view of the 

 glacier below and enabled us to choose a way through the maze 

 of crevasses crossing it. Descending, we plodded wearily on in 

 an irregular zigzag course; but the crevasses became broader 

 and deeper as Ave advanced, and at length we found ourselves 

 traversing flat table-like blocks of snow, bounded on all sides by 

 crevasses so deep that their bottoms w^ere lost to view. We made 

 our w^ay from one snow-table to another by jumping the crevasses 

 where they were narrowest, or by frail snow-bridges spanning 

 the profound gulfs. Night came on while w^e were yet in this 

 wild, broken region, and no choice was left us but to pitch our 

 tent in the snow and wait until morning. The night was clear 

 and cold, and a firm crust formed on the snow before morning. 

 Although the temperature was uncomfortable, we were cheered 

 by the prospects of a firm snow surface on the morrow. 



We continued our march at sunrise and found the walking 

 easy ; but the sun soon came out with unusual brilliancy and 

 softened the snow so much that even the slowest movements 

 were fatiguing. We endeavored to force our way up the center 

 of the glacier through the crevasses and pinnacles of a second 

 ice-fall : but after several hours of exhausting experience we were 



