166 I. C. Russell — Expedition to Mount St. Elias. 



provided with ridge-ropes. Alpenstocks were used for tent poles. 

 " Sou 'westers " and strong water-j^roof coats are indispensable in 

 a climate like that of Alaska, and at night may be used as a sub- 

 stratum on which to sleep. While traveling over the snow-line 

 we used colored glasses to protect the eyes, and also found that 

 a strip of dark mosquito netting tied across the face below the 

 eyes afforded great protection. Some of the party found relief 

 from the glare of the snow by blacking their faces with grease 

 and burnt cork, but one experiment with that method is usually 

 enough. While camping beloAV timber-line during the months 

 of June to September fine mosquito netting is indispensable. In 

 carrying packs, hemp " cod-line " of the largest size was found to 

 answer every requirement, and is preferred by expert packers to 

 pack-straps. 



It has been suggested that experienced Swiss guides are neces- 

 sary to ensure success in climbing Mount St. Elias. Having 

 never followed a guide in the mountains, I am not able to judge 

 of their efficiency, but it must be remembered that no one can 

 guide in a region that has never been traversed. The " guide " as 

 understood in Europe is unknown in America. In the explora- 

 tion of this country by engineers, geologists, etc., the camp hands 

 have followed their leaders and have not shown them the way. 

 In every frontier town there are hunters, trappers, miners, pros- 

 pectors, cow-boys, voyageurs, etc. — men who have passed their 

 lives on the plains or among •' the hills " and are enured to hard- 

 ship and danger. This is the best material in the world from 

 which to recruit an exploring party. A foreigner engaging the 

 services of such men must take into account the independent 

 spirit that animates them and is the secret of their usefulness. 

 They are not servants, but retainers ; that too in regions far 

 beyond the reach of civil law. They will follow their leader 

 anywhere, support him in all dangers, and do their work faith- 

 fully so long as their rights as men are respected. 



By taking proper precautions while traveling across crevassed 

 snow and ice, and guarding against avalanches and snow-blind- 

 ness, an excursion can be made above the snow-line Avith as little 

 danger as in better known and more frequented regions. 



