Difficulties by the Way. 245 



after hour the tAvang of the sword-hayonets and the thud of the 

 axes were ahiiost the only sounds to be heard till the train of carts 

 moved slowly on as the way was opened. Toward evening of 

 the second day we followed a narrow pass along the side of a 

 rocky river bed, stout, inflexible trunks and branches here pro- 

 jecting into our path. On some of these ebony bars the axes 

 resounded as on an anvil, and they yielded only to the more 

 patient saw. As the sun descended we began to flag, but help 

 was at hand ; for a party coming back to us from the camp ahead 

 with food and water, we picked up strength and spirit and 

 reached camp late in- the evening. 



The level plains of Ugogo, which here represent the flat, open 

 step or terrace to which I have referred in the general descrip- 

 tion of Africa, enabled us to make a week or so of splendid and 

 comfortable marches, l^gogo passed, there lay before us the 

 much-dreaded wilderness, so-called, of the Magunda-Mkali, sep- 

 arated from Ugogo by a steep, rocky ascent, Avhich we could 

 only tackle one cart at a time, and we soon came to a point so 

 rugged Avith broken rocks that Ave could proceed no further ; but 

 the sections were unlashed, the carts taken to pieces, and all 

 handed or dragged across the difficult place and put together 

 again beyond. Over the scrubby, rugged hill and dale of Ma- 

 gunda-Mkali, Avithout inhabitants, 20 to 25 miles a day Avas 

 often made; every man kncAV the necessity of pushing on for 

 food and Avater, and the danger, from Avild beasts or Avandering 

 higliAvaymen, of lagging in the rear. 



On, on, went the novel train, through Avear}^ miles of forest, 

 across the scorched plain, rattling over the hard sun-baked foot- 

 prints of the elephant aifd rhinoceros ; on through grassy glades 

 Avhere the nimble antelope bounded, scared out of our path, 

 and the zebra and giraffe Avere startled by the rattling of these 

 strange disturbers of their solitude ; on still, through miles of 

 SAvamp, Avith its croaking legions ; on through scenes of surpass- 

 ing beauty, bright floAvers and gleaming birds and butterflies ; 

 on past the bleaching bones of other travelers waylaid or ex- 

 hausted, till the sun creeps up high overhead and eager glances 

 are cast at green spots where Avater once had been ; on, till the 

 pace groAVS sIoav Avith Aveariness and thirst, and still on, till it 

 reviA^es again as the Avelcome messenger from the front appears 

 in sight with Avater or the camp-fires tell of food and rest. 



Oompleting this difficult section of the journey and mounting 



33— Nat. Geog. Mag., vol. Ill, T891. 



