JV'otice of Hawaii, (Owyhee,) and its Volcanic Regions, &fc. 233 



cending from it was discerned at a much greater distance (ten or 

 twelve miles,) than on my former visit ; and was so massive in its 

 columns, as to promise a high state of action. I regretted to ascer- 

 tain, that the only hut now standing, in which we could find shelter, 

 was at a different place from that which we had occupied in 1825 ; 

 and that, in going to it, we should approach the crater in a different, 

 and less striking manner. I was wishing to have all my first impres- 

 sions and emotions renewed j and, in the disappointment, almost lost 

 the wildness and beauty of the more gradual descent of the preci- 

 pices, which we were making, by a path which branched off from 

 the old one, just as we were coming upon them. The nearness of 

 night, and a threatning appearance of rain, however, left me no al- 

 ternative — and I hastened on with my companions, to catch a first 

 view, under whatever advantages the new approach might offer. 



Our arrival at the volcano was more sudden than I had expected 

 it to be. I had been looking for some more abrupt descent than any 

 we had yet made, and was straining my eyes into the vast body of 

 thick and heated smoke — rising high to heaven and spreading widely 

 over the whole hemisphere to the south — for at least a glimpse of 

 the tremendous gulf from which it issued ; when almost without 

 warning, we found ourselves entering heavy currents of steam, rising 

 rapidly from crevices and deep fissures about our path, and extend- 

 ing, at intervals, on one side, to the smoke from the crater, and on 

 the other, to a low precipice, flanking our right. On turning towards 

 the latter it was seen in many places, even to its very top, to smoke 

 like a coal-kiln. The whole surface of the level on which we were 

 — a plain a mile in length and half a mile in breadth, inclosed on 

 the edge of the crater by a sweep of the precipice — exhibited, in a 

 greater or less degree, the same evidences of wide-spread subter- 

 ranean burnings. 



The trade-wind blew freshly, and swept the dense steam and 

 highly heated air, bursting from the ground, in strong currents and 

 whirling eddies across our path ; and, at the same time, bore before 

 it above, a thick and gloomy scud from the sea, flying so low as to 

 brush swiftly through the trees on the top of the precipice, and, at 

 times, to be scarce above our heads. Every thing wore a foreboding 

 and saddening aspect : and, whatever I felt I had lost in a clear and 

 distant view — like that enjoyed when with Lord Byron — the sight of 

 the hut, which was to be our sleeping place, still far ahead, and, seem- 

 ingly, in the midst of the admonitory signs of a dangerous subslra- 



