ADAM'S SECOND EDEN 
111 
pushed their way to the hihs and took 
Kandy, where the native kings and 
princes had Hved in an earthly paradise 
for more than four centuries, their pal- 
aces and temples having strange Euro- 
pean resemblances because built by Por- 
tuguese prisoners of war. (For map of 
Ceylon see elsewhere in this number.) 
The railway climbs the 75 miles from 
Colombo to Kandy, and rises 1,680 feet 
above the sea in three hours, and the 
transition from palmy suburbs and 
steaming cocoanut plains to the cool, tea- 
covered hills is as complete as agreeable. 
White station-houses are hung over with 
blooming vines and hedged with tall cro- 
tons, hibiscus, oleander, and lantana, and 
the chattering, good - humored people 
crowd off and on the trains, buy green 
cocoanuts to drink and betel nut to chew, 
and make travel a joyous holiday affair. 
One traverses an endless level plain, 
where vast plantations of cocoa palms 
and miles of banana farms supply those 
first necessities of life to the Colombo 
markets. Down in this low country is 
the Heneratgoda botanical experiment 
station, where several varieties of rubber 
were tested 35 years ago. Since then 
the planters have taken up rubber cul- 
ture with such energy that rubber, which 
ranked after tea, cinchona, and cocoa 
products, is now first, and may soon 
equal Brazil's record. 
A rubber exhibition was held in Co- 
lombo in 1907 to stimulate planters' in- 
terest, and a first rubber auction in 1910. 
when 185,000 acres stood planted to rub- 
ber, with 55.000 acres in bearing. Since 
that year twice as many acres have been 
planted to Para rubber, tea and coffee 
bushes have been uprooted to make place 
for Ficus elastica, and in 191 1 the export 
of 4,064,180 pounds of rubber doubled 
the output of the preceding year. 
The great boom in rubber and the 
wild speculation in rubber shares in 1909 
and 19 10 sent innumerable investors to 
Ceylon to look over their spasmodicall}' 
acquired properties, which, added to an 
unusual flock of tourists, tested the ho- 
tels of the island far beyond their ca- 
pacity. 
KANDY, THE CAPITA!^ OF* EARTh's 
paradise: 
Fifty miles out of Colombo the train 
begins to climb at a gradient of i foot 
in each 45, and in the next 12 miles the 
whole rise of 1,680 feet is accomplished, 
the air growing cooler each moment and 
the view ranging further and further 
out across valleys of terraced rice fields 
and hills striped with tea bushes. 
Kandy is rightly the capital of the 
first earthly paradise under the English 
crown, a place so ideally beautiful and 
picturesque as to seem but a series of 
drop curtains. The heart of the town is 
the great stone walled tank, or artificial 
lake, which is encircled by a road shaded 
by magnificent, overarching trees, and 
along that road by day and night passes 
a panorama of native life that continu- 
ally fascinates one. Lean brown priests 
from the monastery on one side of the 
lake are continually passing around to 
the Temple of the Tooth on the opposite 
shore, swathed in graceful yellow dra- 
peries, one shoulder bared and the hand 
holding a scoop of talipot palm leaf or a 
yellow umbrella to ward off rain or sun. 
The Sinhalese men, in their straight, 
tight comboys, or skirts, of bright cotton 
stuffs, look as if the populace were all 
entered for a sack race ; but this hobble 
skirt is as old as the dhoti of India, the 
sarong of Java and Malay countries, and 
it is so suited to the life and the climate 
that for centuries to come they will con- 
tinue to wrap themselves tightly in plaid 
table-cloths and walk with difficult steps. 
The European white jacket and their 
own round tortoise-shell comb are worn 
by all Sinhalese men above the coolie 
class (see page 11 1). 
The sooty black Tamils, who inhabit 
the fertile lowlands at the north end of 
Ceylon, and who come over from the 
Indian mainland by thousands to work 
on the plantations, are given to bright 
red and white draperies and turbans, 
and their women folk and tiny children 
are loaded with silver jewelry. 
The Arabs and Moormen run to 
orange and to paids of red and yellow, 
so that every\yhere, in the dazzling sun- 
