ever issued by any country ; 

 they are large, with finely en- 

 graved pictures of Bosnian 

 scenes. Those of Montenegro 

 bear a portrait of the prince. 



The trip may begin with Dal- 

 matia and its coast towns, then 

 taking Montenegro as a side 

 trip, and ending with Bosnia, 

 whence one goes by rail to Bu- 

 dapest or to Agram and Fiume. 

 Starting from Fiume, one sails 

 down the channel called Ouar- 

 nerolo, leaving Istria and the 

 Gulf of Quarnero to the right. 

 The island of Arbe, about half 

 way to Zara, has an old cathe- 

 dral with a twelfth-century 

 tower. Coming from Trieste, 

 one skirts the western shore of 

 Istria, stopping perhaps at Ro- 

 vigno and at Pola. The stay of 

 an hour enables one to get a 

 hurried glimpse of the great 

 amphitheater and other, Roman 

 remains of Pola, now an import- 

 ant naval station and strongly 

 fortified. The language here is 

 chiefly Italian. Istria would 

 well repay the time devoted to 

 a trip of several days ; but we 



pass on, stopping at one or two - 



of the islands, to Zara, the most 

 northerly town of importance 

 in Dalmatia. 



Zara is noted all over the world for its 

 maraschino. Aside from this, however, 

 the town has many^ attractions to offer. 

 On landing from the steamer in the land- 

 locked harbor, we find ourselves in front 

 of a gate in the town wall. Over the 

 gate is the winged lion of Saint Mark, 

 often met with here and elsewhere in 

 Dalmatia, and a symbol of the former 

 dominion of the Republic of Venice. 

 Passing through the gate, we enter the 

 narrow paved streets of a typical Italian 

 city, such as we may imagine it to have 

 been two or three centuries ago, except 

 that the hotels are more comfortable. 

 There are a number of medieval churches 

 in the town, interesting architecturally, 

 and containing works of art. The ca- 

 thedral in particular, a majestic Roman- 

 esque church, is richly adorned outside 

 with many arcades of little columns and 



Photo by Felix 

 PROMINENT CITIZENS OF ZARA 



Koch 



inside with marbles and paintings. It is 

 in the best Italian style of the Middle 

 Ages. Its campanile is a landmark. 



Wandering among the narrow streets, 

 we come upon several open squares and 

 market-places, where in the morning 

 scores of peasants may be seen in their 

 brilliant-colored costumes. There are 

 Roman remains, too — columns and stat- 

 ues. No railroad as yet reaches Zara. 



The steamer conies out of the harbor, 

 encircles the point of land on which the 

 city stands, and skirts low-lying shores, 

 passing among innumerable islands. All 

 at once a narrow opening appears ; we 

 go through it, and find ourselves in the 

 spacious harbor of Sebenico. with the 

 town rising from the water to a fort 

 crowning the hill. In the middle of the 

 town stands the cathedral, of which we 

 get charming glimpses from the harbor 



1 163 



