H.- .« 



A ivVAlilA LUx\MiTUiiUi\AL 



in the morning, and so we prepared to 

 spend the night in catching up with her. 



We had observed a plaintive horse 

 drawing an antique carriage, and, thank- 

 ing our stars that we had not been left 

 on some inaccessible island where no 

 steamer would touch for a week, we set 

 out vaguely for the distant railroad sta- 

 tion. The driver thought there might be 

 a train that night, though he could not 

 be sure, and he thought we might catch 

 it. The drive along the shore, among 

 seven little villages called Sette Castelli, 

 is one of the most beautiful in Dalmatia, 

 and this we could appreciate in the twi- 

 light. After driving several miles on 

 the main road toward Spalato — the en- 

 tire distance would have been over 

 twenty miles — we turned inland, and 

 began to climb the foothills toward an 

 apparently impassable wall of moun- 

 tains. The darkness was now intense 

 as we drove through a thick forest, and 

 no railroad in sight. Finally, however, 

 we drew up at the little station on the 

 mountain side and learned that the train 

 would arrive in a few minutes. After 

 paying for the carriage, we had just 

 enough change in our pockets for third- 

 class tickets to Spalato — and there we 

 arrived about nine o'clock. We tried to 

 walk aboard the Danubio as if nothing 

 had happened, but Captain Gopcevich 

 saw us. 



"Aren't vou the two who were left be- 

 hind at Trau? Yes? Well, how did 

 you get here? By train? Ah, yes; the 



I'hutub fiom "A Biitisli OHilli hi tl _ l.ilkan>." l!y 

 Major Percy Henderson. J. B. Lippmcott Co. 



TURKISH CHILDREN RETURNING FROM 

 MARKET : RAGUSA " 



train! But I whistled before I started. 

 The time-table? Oh, we never bother 

 about the time-table except when we 

 leave the big ports. Yes, tomorrow 

 morning at six." May this experience 

 warn other travelers to keep an eye on 

 the boat when -visiting some too tempting 

 Dalmatian city. Trau can, however, 

 like the Roman city of Salona, be visited 

 by land from Spalato if one has the time 

 to make the excursion. Incidentally, 

 the remarks quoted above were made in 

 Italian, but we afterwards discovered 

 that the captain, an excellent fellow, had 

 been in America and spoke good English. 



Spalato, the largest city in Dalmatia, 

 consists of two parts — the old town, built 

 entirely within the walls of the great 

 palace of Diocletian, two hundred yards 

 long and almost as broad, and the new 

 town, stretching to the west along the 

 shore and to the north toward the moun- 

 tains. In the old town, buildings of 

 Roman, medieval, and modern times are 

 inextricably mingled. The streets are 

 mere tunnels, and to walk through them 

 at night is a weird experience. In the 

 middle is the cathedral into which the 

 mausoleum of the emperor has been 

 transformed. The new quarters of the 

 town are spacious, and of course com- 

 paratively commonplace, but the old 

 town is unique. 



From Spalato to Gravosa the express 

 steamers go in seven hours, but the Dan- 



1167 



