Photo bv Kenneth ^IcKenzie 



MARKET DAY AT NJE;GUS, MONTENEGRO 



took pains to inform us that he was a 

 "Kunstmaler" and a pupil of the great 

 Arnold Bocklin. The trip was to him 

 almost a pilgrimage, for one of Bocklin's 

 most famous pictures, "The Isle of the 

 Dead," was inspired by the rocks and 

 trees of Lacroma. The view of the city, 

 with its walls rising directly from the 

 water, is particularly striking from this 

 point. In the market-place, especially in 

 the early morning, the wealth and variety 

 of national costumes is greater than else- 

 where in Dalmatia. 



Before taking the train from Gravosa 

 for the interior, we continued by steamer 

 to the south in order to visit Cattaro and 

 Montenegro. There are no harbors until 

 we reach the Bocche di Cattaro, an extra- 

 ordinary fjord, suggesting Norway in its 

 grandeur and the Italian lakes in its lux- 

 uriance and its wealth of color. As the 

 boat winds through one narrow channel 

 after another, new arms of water keep 

 opening up, until after a long course, but 

 still quite near the sea, we reach Cattaro, 

 at the head of the fjord. 



For some time, on the sides of the 



precipitous mountains rising behind the 

 town, the zigzags of the road to Monte- 

 negro have been visible — the one easy 

 means of entering the principalit}^ First 

 the road takes a long turn to the south, 

 three miles in a direct line from Cat- 

 taro — much more as the carriage goes ; 

 then it returns, mounting in numberless 

 windings, until it reaches an altitude 

 of some 3,000 feet and is directly over 

 the starting point, where the steamer 

 can be seen still moored to the pier. 

 The view over the various arms of the 

 gulfs, with their many villages, over 

 the surrounding mountains, and in the 

 distance the Adriatic, is indescribably 

 grand. The whole of the Bocche di Cat- 

 taro is very strongly fortified. Cattaro 

 itself has had a tumultuous history and 

 many masters. At one time it was a re- 

 public, like Ragusa. It is not an inter- 

 esting town, except for the beauty of its 

 situation and for the varied costumes that 

 one sees. 



Soon after passing the frontier of 

 Montenegro the road turns inland, and 

 as we descend into the valley of Njegus 



1173 



