316 On the Fur Trade, and Fur-bearing Animals. 



tournaments and heraldry lasted in high glory for three centuries; 

 and then declined together on the introduction of fire arms. Mail- 

 ed knights in their resplendent coats of arms were only the more 

 conspicuous marks for shot, and the stern compulsion of an improved 

 military system, caused a revolution in all the aspects of that era. 

 The chieftain's banner gave vs^ay to the national flag ; and the men at 

 arms and the feudal retainer, were replaced by a mercenary sol- 

 diery. Silk also began to gain an ascendancy over furs, as it was 

 more readily and gracefully accommodated to the capricious vaga- 

 ries of fashion, and better adapted to the light and flowing draperies 

 of dress and furniture than furs, which though rich, were often too 

 heavy for all climes and seasons.* 



Although " the noble furs," sable, ermJne, gris and vair, claimed 

 precedence, yet in the eleventh century the fur of the minever or 

 mink, an amphibious animal from Russia, became a fashionable edg- 

 ing for the robes of gentleman, and the richer of the middling classes. 



Previous to the direct trade in furs, established by Sir Richard 

 Chancellor between England and Russia, they were brought from 

 the north east through the ports of Livonia to the Hanse merchants, 

 on the south coasts of the Baltic, and thence were distributed 

 throughout Europe, f The Livonian trade was conducted in a mode 

 so circuitous and with such suspicious policy, that it was known by 

 very few where the furs were procured. The Livonian warinduced 

 the Czar, to open a direct trade, at the request of the merchants of 

 England, through Sir Richard Chancellor, who discovered a pass- 

 age around the North Cape to Archangel, in 1553. An English 

 company, protected by the Czar, established several posts on the 

 White Sea, with a warehouse at Moscow,, whence they sent trading 

 parties to Persia, and the countries on the Caspian. They exported 

 silks and woollens, and received furs among other exchanges in re- 

 turn. The country bounded on the west by the Dwina, which falls 



* Mr. Aikin says, that " silken plush and velvet was probably invented in imita- 

 tion of furs." 



t In the eleventh and twelfth century, furs were the common coverings of beds, 

 in the middle and west of Europe, besiffes forming the principal and most distinctive 

 part of dress. The more precious furs were reserved for kings, knights and the prin- 

 cipal nobility. Persons of inferior rank contented themselves with the vair or Hun- 

 garian squirrel, and the gris or gray; the lower orders of citizens, and burgesses, 

 with the common squirrel and lamb skins. The peasants wore cat skins, badger 

 skins, &c. JSTotes to Fabliaux, or Tales of the twelfth and thirteenth century. 



