A WOMAN’S CLIMBS 
that I was ready to start for its base 
there came a bad storm, which made this 
ascent quite out of the question for a 
time, and so it continued for three 
weeks. Not in years had it been so 
white, so perpetually white, for bad 
weather continued to come about every 
third day. When for a day or two the 
sun shone again, other ascents would be- 
come possible—the lower and less steep 
rock ascents, the snow mountains, even 
the Weisshorn, but not the steep and 
lofty Matterhorn. 
THE RIFFELHORN, 9,617 FEET, 5 HOURS* 
The little Riffelhorn (see picture, page 
658) was chosen to begin on, just for a 
little rock practice, and for my guide to 
judge what training I needed. Even 
from its harder side it meant only 40 
minutes of real effort, roped to one 
guide. 
THE UNTERGABELHORN, I1I,150 FEET, 744 
HOURS 
The next day came the Untergabel- 
horn (see picture, page 642). This like- 
wise was climbed by its harder side, from 
the Trift Hotel, and one bit was difficult ; 
but even so it required only one guide. 
A hailstorm overtook us as we ap- 
proached the jagged rock ridge, making 
it cold and slippery work. Three guide- 
less gentlemen below, although ascend- 
ing by the easier route, turned back. 
Because of the route and the storm, we 
were four hours from the hotel to the 
top. 
After the first grassy slopes and 
gravel—for all ascents begin way above 
timber line—came a “couloir”, or gulch, 
in the rocks filled with snow and débris. 
Mounting directly up it, we gained the 
rock ridge which we were to follow to 
the top. Going by this route, at one 
point on the ridge was a rock slab that 
slanted down rather steeply and con- 
nected with the next high point only by 
a crotch at one of its lower corners. I 
* The number of hours given for each ascent 
indicates the time from the base, where the 
start is made on the morning of the ascent, to 
the summit and down again all the way to the 
place where that night is spent. 
INS DHE, HIGH: ARPS 647 
had to lie on my back and slide down it 
six inches at a time for 15 feet, fearful 
of sliding off into space, yet secured by 
the guide from above as he carefully 
let out the slack in the rope. He fol- 
lowed, with no one to hold him, stepped 
over my head, while I sat astride the 
crotch hugging the rock overhead, and 
climbed up it 20 feet perpendicularly 
above me, I following. 
THE WELLENKUPPE, 12,830 FEET, 8 HOURS 
The Wellenkuppe (see picture, page 
659), four days later, proved more inter- 
esting, colder—for it was higher and a 
snow summit—but not much longer, be- 
cause less rock work. Only below its 
summit were there any rocks, but there 
was much snow on them and my feet 
became numb. The snow-covered ‘T'rift 
Glacier had to be traversed, both going 
and coming. ‘Two guides were there- 
fore necessary, for safety dictates that 
there should never be less than three 
persons to cross a glacier. If one should 
fall in a “crevasse,” or crevice, the 
weight of the other two would mer 
than balance the drag on the rope and 
enable them to pull him out. 
THE ZINAL ROTHORN, 13,855 FEET, 13 
HOURS 
At the worst point on this easy Trift 
Glacier (see picture, page 644), jutting 
rocks at one side led the eye up to a 
steep slope of snow along whose crest 
lay the route to the difficult Zinal Rot- 
horn. 
“Tt was here that Mr. and his 
guide were killed,’ said my guides, 
pointing out to me the spot on the ridge 
where he had slipped and had dragged 
his guide down the slippery snow and 
over the cliffs, to be dashed to pieces on 
this glacier far below. This was my next 
climb, two days later, so I took care to 
have guides who knew their business 
and could be trusted to hold me if I 
slipped. 
The ascent of the Zinal Rothorn took 
half as long again as the Wellenkuppe, 
6%4 hours from the Trift Hotel to the 
top, for instead of a level glacier to cross, 
