THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 
Photo by George EK. Holt 
HIGHWAY ALONG BEACH: TANGIER 
white—flowing garment with peaked 
hood. He was seated well toward the 
tail of the smallest imaginable donkey, 
and behind trudged two or three of his 
wives, loaded down with the produce of 
their lord and master for the market. 
Next passed a rich Moor from Tetuan, 
mounted on a gaily caparisoned white 
mule. As he cantered placidly along his 
mantle vied in whiteness with the surf, 
for these “k’sa” of the rich are as deli- 
cate and gauzelike as the most fastidious 
woman could wish. 
At the next moment passed a group 
from the country to the south. Their 
heads were closely shaven, with the ex- 
ception of a tuft about the size of a dollar 
a little above and behind the right ear, 
which falling in a plait about a foot long 
gave them a very uncanny appearance. 
They beat along unmercifully their over- 
laden and horribly chafed donkeys, loaded 
down with country produce, a great part 
of which is destined for His Britannic 
Majesty’s red-coats at Gibraltar. These 
men are clad in a single dirty, short 
mantle of a material resembling potato 
sacking, which falls considerably short of 
reaching their coppery knees. The airy 
costume of their veiled women, of similar 
material, modestly reached the knee. 
Now and again an Arab ona high saddle, 
with shining Moorish stirrups, astride a 
fiery, slender-limbed horse, came coursing 
by, his long, creamy garments streaming 
to the wind, in his hand the six-foot brass 
or silver mounted rifle, which the Span- 
iards have learned to their grief to know 
so well. 
The traveler from Europe will be 
struck at once by the total lack of the 
well-known rumble of city streets, for 
though the uneven thoroughfares are in 
most part paved with cobblestones, 
wheeled vehicles are practically unknown, 
not only in Tangier, but throughout the 
Empire. The streets are nevertheless 
crowded with other means of transport. 
So narrow are some of them that at the 
oft-repeated “Balak!” “Look out!” one 
must again and again spring into some 
doorway in order to let donkeys, mules, 
and horses, with their spreading burdens, 
pass by. 
Camels have to be unloaded on the 
“soko,” or market-place, outside the 
