760 
Our party remained in Tangier only 
long enough to make arrangements for 
horses, pack animals, men, and supplies. 
No great amount of the latter is neces- 
sary, for the kaids of villages are com- 
pelled to furnish what is necessary at a 
reasonable price. 
of quartering passing troops, etc., upon 
the villages is so oppressive that the in- 
habitants have withdrawn from the im- 
portant caravan routes. For this reason, 
and on account of delays, we might find 
ourselves compelled to stop near some 
poor “douar,” a sort of Bedouin-like rov- 
ing village, whose inhabitants might not 
be in the position to supply our needs, 
when we would, of course, be forced to 
fall back upon our own resources. 
Our guide, Jelalli, was an Algerian 
Arab, in whose veins flowed some negro 
blood. He spoke French fairly well, was 
extremely polite and obliging, and was 
always well groomed. He was invaluable 
to us, for aside from being a good or- 
ganizer his suavity of manner and con- 
versance with people and things Moroc- 
can enabled us to do and see many things 
otherwise not attainable. 
However, the system . 
THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 
; Photo by George E. Holt 
WHIPPING GATE OF A PRISON: TANGIER 
MAKING UP THE CARAVAN 
One other member of the caravan who 
should be mentioned was “Hashmed,” 
the soldier furnished us by the govern- 
ment, without whom the Sultan could not 
have been held responsible for our safety. 
Though officially his only concern was to 
guard us, yet he was always willing to 
lend a helping hand. During the long 
days of our Moroccan travels he followed 
us like a faithful dog, and everywhere 
his tall figure, erect in spite of the weight 
of sixty years, and pointed turban of the 
Sultan’s guard commanded instant re- 
spect. 
As we rode through the crowded 
streets of Tangier on the day of our de- 
parture for the interior, I think we will 
all confess to having felt a little “queer,” 
as we noticed the glances, half scowling, 
half curious, of the faces of the throng. 
In the midst of that motley element the 
towering form of our soldier, who stood 
responsible with his head for our safety, 
seemed slender protection indeed for a 
lady and two white men in what has 
been called the most oriental country of 
the world. My brother and I realized 
