97 
wall, a low stand; and, if the weather 
makes it necessary, a brazier with a few 
glowing charcoals is added to warm the 
fingers. For the sake of variety, the 
vases or bronzes are occasionally ex- 
changed for others from the go-down. 
The best room in the native home is 
placed in the rear of the house, because 
it overlooks the garden. How dear to 
the Japanese heart is the garden, where 
love of nature finds peculiar expression 
in this land of flowers, for in no other 
country do dooryards contain so many 
artistic features within so limited a space. 
One afternoon, while investigating the 
attractions of a brass curio-shop in Yoko- 
hama, a funeral procession, wending its 
way along the narrow street, ascended 
the steps of a near-by Buddhist temple. 
I‘irst came four men, each carrying a 
flimsy artificial tree, about three feet 
long, representing the lotus plant in 
bloom. These were followed by eight 
coolies bearing on their shoulders two 
poles about 18 feet. long, from which 
hung the coffin. When the family of the 
deceased is unable to bear the expense 
of the full-length coffin, a smaller square 
one is used, the remains being placed in 
a sitting posture. ‘These receptacles are 
sometimes too small to receive the re- 
mains without breaking the limbs. 
In the present case, owing to the afflu- 
ent circumstances of the deceased, the 
coffin was of full length, its frail con- 
struction in the style of a toy Swiss cot- 
tage. The two sides were hung with 
bamboo curtains of so loose a weave as 
plainly to show the outline of the occu- 
pant, who proved to be a woman. The 
remains were followed by rikishas con- 
taining the mourners and friends. Wish- 
ing to see the ceremony, we followed 
after the procession. On reaching the 
auditorium, the poles from which the 
coffin hung extended so far into the 
entrance that it was difficult to gain ad- 
mittance. The altars in these temples 
occupy so much of the room that little 
is left for the people. Spaces were as- 
signed us on the floor at the right where 
we could sit. In front of each one stood 
THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 
a tray with cigarettes and a small brazier 
containing a live coal to furnish light for 
the smoker. 
The mourners were kneeling on the 
floor at the left. Just back of the altar 
enclosure stood a low stand; behind this 
sat the high priest, a large gong at his 
right, and just back of him sat two other 
priests with a pair of cymbals. The 
service consisted of prayers, repeated 
first by one and then another, then all 
three in unison, with occasional readings 
from scrolls, all interspersed with strokes 
on the gong and clangs of the cymbals. 
During the service the bereaved hus- 
band passed to the front of each group 
of friends, including our party, knelt 
facing each group, and bowed to the 
floor. This salutation was returned by 
all in a similar manner, as an expression 
of regard and sympathy. 
Toward the close of the service an 
attendant entered, bearing an armful of 
paper boxes about the size of a pound 
candy box, filled with small cakes and 
confection neatly tied. Under the string 
of each box was a slip with heavy 
mourning border and Japanese charac- 
ters, which our guide translated for us 
as follows: “Many thanks for your 
honorable attendance for the funeral of 
Sem, my deceased wife, today. Excuse 
for my expressing thanks here instead 
to call at your residence promptly. Yours 
respectfully, Umesuke Saiki and relative. 
19th day, fourth month, 42d year, Maji.” 
One of these boxes was laid on the 
floor in front of each person, to be car- 
ried away by him. During the early 
part of the service those who felt dis- 
posed smoked the cigarettes provided in 
the trays, and partook of tea, which was 
also served. 
Immediately after attending the Em- 
peror’s cherry blossom garden party, on 
April 26, we took our departure from 
Tokio for Nikko by rail, 100 miles north. 
The railroads of Japan are under goy- 
ernment control and splendidly managed. 
During our months of travel over these 
lines, the practical benefit to travelers of 
the inbred courtesy peculiar to the people 
