GLIMPSES OF JAPAN 
who straightway set about the task of 
settling the matter once for all, soon 
announced the number as 78, but were 
told they were wrong. After recounting 
several times with the same result, they 
were informed they had omitted the 
shadows in the count. 
The temple and mausoleum of the first 
Shogun in Nikko (see page 987), built 
in the 17th century, located on the side 
of a mountain, surrounded by a magnifi- 
cent grove of cryptomerias, probably 
comprises the finest examples of ancient 
architecture in Japan. Each individual 
building is a gem and has features of 
especial interest, including exquisite 
carving, massive tiled roofs, and won- 
derful bronze and lacquer work. 
Throughout this big wood were scat- 
tered little temples and shrines in large 
numbers showing indications of great 
age. Many of the presiding images were 
prostrate, with arms and sometimes head 
separated from the body, all bearing evi- 
dence of disastrous conflicts with the 
evil spirits they were placed here to 
repel. 
On the mountain far above the old 
tombs winds a narrow trail, which leads 
from the back country. The peasant 
woman bearing a load of charcoal on 
her back (see page 986) had carried her 
burden three miles. On delivering it to 
its destination, one mile further on, she 
was to receive the equivalent of 15 cents 
for the service. 
One of the most enjoyable parts of 
Japan from our point of view is the 
mountainous region of Miyanoshita, four 
hours’ journey from Yokohama by steam 
railway, electric tram, and rikisha. The 
hamlet is located well up on the side 
of a mountain overlooking the valley 
through which races a saucy little stream. 
To those fond of hot-water baths, the 
Fujiya Hotel, at Miyanoshita, is most 
attractive, since the waters of the hot 
springs which have made the place far- 
famed are on tap in each guest-room of 
the hotel. 
From here the distant mountains af- 
ford vistas of rare beauty, but one has 
only to turn his gaze to the rear of the 
997 
hotel for a nearer picture, which will 
hold him entranced (see page 984). 
Through the typical Japanese garden a 
rushing stream of crystal water tumbles 
over the rocks, the wild azalias adding 
their brilliant hues, and the tout ensem- 
ble making a fit setting for the dainty 
little proprietress, whose presence com- 
pletes the charming scene. Soon after 
retiring, on the night of our arrival at 
the Fujiya Hotel, we were startled by a 
distant jarring and rumbling sound, 
which appeared rapidly to approach the 
house. Soon one side of our room be- 
came involved ; then, with increasing vio- 
lence, the opposite side, until the entire 
building seemed to be tumbling. On 
rushing into the hall, the proprietor was 
met, who, perfectly calm and undis- 
turbed, remarked that it was only an 
earthquake, a frequent occurrence in 
that locality. This was reassuring for 
the time being, until reminded that earth- 
quakes caused the loss of 30,000 lives in 
1703 and twice that number in 1855 in 
the city of Tokio, only about 60 miles 
distant, and that geologists had stated 
that the very ground on which we were 
standing was forced up out of the depths 
of the sea by seismic and volcanic agen- 
cies, with no assurance that it was not 
at that very moment considering return- 
ing into the depths again. 
This little Empire seems to have more 
than its share of underground activity, 
since estimates based on the records of 
former years indicate that just an ordi- 
nary crop should produce 500 jars of 
quakes per year, or nearly one and one- 
half shakes each day, and there are 51 
active volcanoes on the island. 
From Miyanoshita delightful excur- 
sions are made to the surrounding towns 
on the native chairs. Many tourists visit 
the beautiful Lake Hakone region, where 
Fujiyama, Japan’s greatest sacred moun- 
tain, is frequently caught admiring its 
own snowy nightcap, gazing down into 
the mirror-like waters of the lake from 
its height of 12,365 feet above. About 
half. the distance from Miyanoshita, a 
few steps to one side of the road, cut in 
relief on the face of a great rock which 
