GLIMPSES OF JAPAN 
By the sweetening influence of some 
chocolate and the promise of a copy to 
send to a soldier brother, our interpreter 
obtained permission to take her picture 
(see page 988). 
As lovers of nature we felt amply re- 
paid for the hardship of the long but 
interesting ride to the summit of the 
sacred mountain, Koyasan, four miles of 
the route by rikisha and ten miles car- 
ried in native baskets, known as kagos 
(see page 999), each one hung from 
poles on the shoulders of three coolies. 
This means of conveyance with a Japa- 
nese passenger appears to the observer 
extremely comfortable, but if a for- 
eigner can ride a mile in one and still 
look pleasant he must have an unusual 
make-up. 
The trail to Koyasan leads up a very 
steep but marvelously beautiful moun- 
tain, the last four miles being through 
a forest of enormous cryptomeria and 
cypress trees. There being no inn, our 
courier obtained accommodations for us 
in the Buddhist temple Shojo Shin-in. 
We were supplied with wholesome na- 
tive food cooked and served by acolytes. 
These embryo priests made up our beds 
on the floor and in every way looked 
after the comfort of the party during 
the three days of our stay. Several of 
the temples on Koyasan Mountain are 
among the oldest in Japan, dating back 
1,100 years, and are more beautiful than 
many of the modern buildings. Among 
the most attractive of these buildings is 
the artistic cld tower which shelters the 
great bronze bell, which has boomed out 
the hours for centuries. 
In parts of Japan members of asso- 
ciations of the poorer classes contribute 
a small sum monthly to a common fund. 
At a stated time several persons are 
chosen by lot to represent the rest in a 
pilgrimage to certain shrines (see page 
-969), all expenses being paid by the 
association. When en route to Koyasan 
we overtook one of this class, the old 
fellow (shown on pages 973 and 974), 
with staff in one hand, tinkling bell in 
the other, slowly trudging up the steep 
ancline to fulfill his obligation at the 
1001 
shrine on the summit of this sacred 
mountain. 
The narrow strip of woods compris- 
ing the old burial ground, near the tem- 
ples on Koyasan, is a mile in length, 
and, from the great numbers of monu- 
ments and tombstones crowded into the 
space, “standing room only” must be the 
rule. Kobo Daishi, the most celebrated 
of Buddhist saints, founded this ceme- 
tery in the ninth century, and, owing to 
his tomb being within the enclosure and 
the special privileges in the hereafter be- 
lieved to be derived from even a nominal 
burial beside this godly man, all the 
great families of Japan are represented 
in the great collection of stones; not that 
their remains are actually interred here, 
a tooth or any part of the anatomy being 
sufficient to gain the coveted benefit. 
The funeral tablets of those repre- 
sented in this burial place stand in rows 
of thousands along the wall of the memo- 
rial hall in the temple. Daily service is 
conducted at this shrine at 5 o’clock in 
the morning. ‘The officiating priest ex- 
tended an invitation to attend this serv- 
ice the morning after our arrival. The 
hour had arrived before we were awak- 
ened, and, not wishing to miss any part 
of the service, little time was devoted to 
dress. 
On entering the hall the 11 priests and 
acolytes, with heads shaven, their feet 
bare, and robed in vestments of two 
shades of yellow, were kneeling in 
prayer. The entire service was intoned 
on one note, but each priest was singing 
in a different key, punctuated with the 
occasional clang of cymbals and the rich, 
deep tone of the great gong. The com- 
bination formed a most weird and re- 
markable harmony, which, together with 
the surroundings and the hour, contrib- 
uted to the impressiveness of the service. 
Conspicuous among the few shops in 
Koyasan village is the drug store (see 
page 989). The entire front of the store 
is hung with vertical signboards, calling 
attention to the great variety of reme- 
dies and goods dealt in. ‘These signs, 
being hung with hooks and eyes, are 
easily taken down at closing time. 
