136 WINTER VOYAGE THROUGH STRAITS OF MAGELLAN 



Fiji Islanders have been rendered subject to the civilizing influ- 

 ences of Christianit3\ 



Captain Mayne, who recently" resurveyed these waters in 

 H. B. M. ship Nassau, states that " these })eople pass most of 

 their time in canoes and make voyages from the straits to the 

 Gulf of Penas, a distance of many miles. Though usually but 

 few canoes are seen in passing through, it is extraordinary how 

 rapidly a hundred or more will gather together if they see an 

 opportunity for attacking boats, small vessels, or a wreck. How 

 the rendezvous is known is a mystery," sa3^s Cai)tain iNIayne, 

 ''but fires are seen smoking all along the coast for miles, and 

 out of every creek a canoe will be seen shooting toward the ral- 

 hdng point; but there is no romance Avhatever about their ap- 

 pearance, for instead of the graceful shape of the Indian canoe, 

 these miserable craft are simply planks tied together Avith thongs 

 or fibers of trees, without the slightest regard to foriii, and in- 

 stead of being urged along by paddles they are rowed by oars 

 rudely made of pieces of board tied to the end of a short pole. 

 On the bottom of the boat, in the middle, is a small fire, and on 

 each side of it are crouched six or eight men, women, or chil- 

 dren, according to the size of the craft. These are generally, as 

 we have said, almost entirely naked, the women appearing to 

 care less about clothing than the men." 



A very striking difference between these people and the Pata- 

 gonians was noticed by Captain Fitzroy in 1830, and subse- 

 quently by Captain Mayne in 1867. This is that while the 

 Patagonian will generally drink all the rum he can get and is 

 always more or less drunk when near a settlement, the Fuegian 

 cannot be persuaded to drink at all, and if he is enticed into 

 tasting strong liquor of any kind will alwa_ys put it away Avith a 

 Avry face. In fact, this is the solitary redeeming trait in these 

 savages, Avho are indeed to be dreaded, for they have frequently 

 attacked and overcome the crcAvs of passing vessels. 



The next morning Ave were under Avay Avith the first of the 

 flood, and steamed around Cape Gregory into the second nar 

 roAVS. Up to Elizabeth island the scenery Avas as tame and un- 

 interesting as possible, but noAv for the first time we caught sight 

 of the distant mountains to the soutliAA^ard, Avith their snoAV}^ 

 ]3eaks and glaciers. Passing the island, Ave descried the clearing 

 above the settlement at Punta Arenas, and soon after the A^illage 

 was in full vieAV, showing to much adA'^antage its Avhite houses 

 and fences dotting the hillsides. It is noAV a colou}^ of Chile, 



