196 Mr. 0. Salvin on the Sea-birds and Waders 



sought for. The process of preparing it differs from that ap- 

 plied to other species, which are split and then salted. The 

 " Peje Armado/^ as it is called, has the scales united into 

 a strong kind of armour. A sharp stake is cut and thrust 

 into the mouth of the fish, and passed quite through its whole 

 length. It is then roasted over a fire till the scaly coating 

 splits and can be easily removed. This done, the roasting 

 is proceeded with, but over a slower fire. The stake, which is 

 often an inch and a half in diameter, is not withdrawn ; but with 

 the ends chopped off, the prepared " Armado " is sent into the 

 interior. Very few reach Guatemala, as the Indians of the 

 Altos consume all before they get so far. It is a favourite cargo 

 for an Indian pedlar for his return journey, when he has come 

 from the Altos with the productions of the cold climate — flour 

 and cloth ; foi*, in spite of the heat, every Indian possesses his 

 chamarra, or rug. A few cattle are fed at Huamuchal, which 

 on the approach of the floods are driven further inland. The 

 water of the lagoons is slightly brackish and very muddy, being 

 constantly stirred by alligators, turtle, fish and innumerable 

 birds. 



There was a mayor-domo of the hacienda, and a mayor-domo of 

 the " pesqueria" or fisheries — the one to look after the cattle, 

 and the other to superintend the fishing. Both these dignita- 

 ries were "sambos "; that is, half-bred, Indian and Negro. I put 

 up in a rancho attached to the former department, both because 

 there was grass at hand for the mules, and it was near the river 

 where the water is fresh. The fisheries were about two miles 

 off. The practice was, when one lagoon failed to yield sufficient 

 fish, to haul the canoe overland to another ; and the rancho in 

 which the Indians lived was in a central point near a cluster of 

 lagoons. The Indian workmen, mayor-domos and all, are bound 

 almost as closely to their master as if they were slaves. They 

 commence service by borrowing money, which the master takes 

 care is not repaid, as the existence of the debt gives him great 

 power over his workpeople, almost enabling him to compell them 

 to work to pay the sum they owe. This goes on all their lives. 

 By an arrangement between masters, a servant and his debt 

 change hands. This is rather like slavery; but I never saw 



