412 Henry Durnford’s last 
viously open campo are now covered with maize, alfalfe, 
wheat, and, nearer Buenos Ayres, many peach-plantations. 
We arrived at Campana about 4.30, and at once embarked 
on the steamer ‘ Pruveedor.’. The passengers chiefly con- 
sist of Russian emigrants, many of whom are going to 
the province of Cordova. They have enormous boxes (I 
suppose all their personal property is contained in them), 
and the hold is soon filled. After leaving the mole we sit 
down to an excellent dinner—seven courses, coffee, and 
excellent French and Spanish wines. Meanwhile, with a 
bright moon overhead, a keen and almost frosty air, the 
steamboat ploughs its furrow through the broad bosom of 
the Parana. The scenery by moonlight is very striking, 
much more so than by daylight. After leaving Campana 
the left bank of the river is formed of a steep baranca 
which increases in height as we ascend. Five or six hours 
of steamboat-travelling is avoided by the Campana route ; 
but for any one who has not seen the islands in the delta 
of the Parana, I should recommend the route from the 
Tigre, taking the Northern Railway train from Buenos 
Ayres. The channel between these islands is sometimes very 
narrow, and a good view of the vegetation is thus afforded. 
At midnight we pass Zarate, the arsenal of the Republic, 
and San Pedro, higher up the river. 
May 15. At daylight I am awoke by the noise of landing 
some cargo at San Nicolas, a place of considerable impor- 
tance, which receives goods direct from Europe ; it is situated 
on the borders of the provinces of Buenos Ayres and Santa 
Fé. About 10 o’clock we arrive at Rosario, the scenery on the 
banks of the river remaining the same. Black-headed and 
Ashy-headed Gulls (Larus maculipennis and L. cirrhocephalus) 
are common. Sterna magnirostris, a few seen. Bird-life, 
however, is very scarce on these waters. 
About 10 a.m. I landed, and taking a cart, after showing 
my things to the custom-house officers, who gave me very little 
trouble, I went to the Posada de los Cuatro Naciones, close 
to the Central Argentine Railway-station, to be ready for 
the early train in the morning to Cordova. Unfortunately 
