EXPLANATION OF PLATE X, 



Details of Chief's Costume, as shown in Plate IX. 



From photographs and sketches by the author 



Fig. 83. Ceremonial Blanket. Worn by Indians of rank and wealth on the North- 

 west coast, commonly called a " Chilkat blanket," because the best 

 s^Decimens come from the Chilkat country, although other tribes are 

 more or less exjDert in weaving them. The warp is composed of twisted 

 cord or twine of cedar bark fiber, and the woof of worsted spun from the 

 wool of the mountain goat. Brown, yellow, black, and white are the 

 colors used, and tliese are skillfully wrought into a pattern representing 

 the totem or a totemic legend of the owner. The details of the weaving- 

 are shown in Fig. 33a. The design on both the Llanket and the cere- 

 monial shirt represents Hoorts, the bear. 



Fig. 34. Ceremonial G-arment or Shirt. Woven as described above. The trim- 

 ming on the collar and cuflfs is sea-otter fur. 



Fig. 35. Chief's Ceremonial Head-Dress. Carved from hard wood, beautifully 

 inlaid, painted, and polished. The erect fringe on the ujjper circumfer- 

 ence is formed by seal whiskers set into the frame. The pendent trail 

 is made from three lengths of ermine skins, there being about ten skins 

 in each row. The top of the head-dress is filled with birds" down on 

 ceremonial occasions, and in the motion of the dances this sifts through 

 and falls like snow about the person of the dancer. 



Fig. 36. Buckskin Leggings. With three rows of puffin beaks, which rattle with 

 the motion of the wearer. This style of legging is also made from ordi- 

 nary cloth, or from the woven blanket stuff, similar to Fig. 33. 



