Gabb.] 486 [Aug. 20, 



tion ever yet accumulated with reference to tlie Guatusos. I have care- 

 fully rejected many wonderful stories told me by persons claiming to tel^ 

 what they saw, and have only availed myself of the accounts of those who 

 seemed to exaggerate least, or whose position forbade me to doubt their 

 assertions. 



The tribes of Southern and South-eastern Costa Eica are better known. 

 The Terrabas, living on the Pacific slope, and their neighbors, the Borucas 

 or, as they call themselves, Bruncas, live under complete subjection to 

 the laws of Costa Rica, and the rule of a missionary priest. They may 

 be strictly called civilized. But those on the Atlantic slope have had a 

 powerful ally in the forces of nature, in resisting the civilizing efforts of 

 the Spanish invaders. The heavy rains of the Atlantic seaboard produce 

 a luxuriance of vegetation that may well nigh be called unconquerable. 

 Broad swamps, dank and reeking with malaria threaten the European 

 with bilious fever, fatal to energy if not to life. Three centuries ago 

 Columbus sailed along the coast from the Bahia del Almirante, and in his 

 usual florid style called this the Rich Coast, and yet it has never yielded 

 to the conqueror or paid him tribute. Two centuries ago a little colony 

 was planted far back in the mountains and one or two outlying missionary 

 posts were scattered among the then powerful tribes. But a just retribu- 

 tion fell on San Jose de Cabecar. The hardy mountaineers did not submit 

 to the oppressors' yoke like the gentle and hapless victims of Cu.ba and 

 Santo Domingo. Even now the traditions are well preserved among them, 

 and I have listened to more than one recital of outrages which I dare not 

 believe to be exaggerated. Father Las Casas tells of even worse oppres- 

 sions. In 1709 the people rose and massacred all who fell into their power. 

 A pitiful remnant escaped from the colony, to wander for weeks in the 

 woods and finally a handful reached Cartago. The Viceroy of Guatemala, 

 in retaliation sent forces by way of the forest trails from Cartago and others 

 across the mountains byway of Terraba. They surrounded, killed, and cap- 

 tured all the Indians they could, and carried their prisoners to Cartago. 

 Some of these were divided among the settlers as servants, and have left a 

 strong tinge on the cheeks of many a would-be high-toned Costa Rican. 

 The remainder were settled in the villages of Tucuriqui and Orosi, where, 

 though partly civilized, they still retain their original language, badly 

 corrupted with Spanish. Since this disastrous ending to the colony, both 

 parties have kept up a wholesome dread of each other and no further ef- 

 forts have ever been made to found a colony on the Atlantic side of the 

 country. At the same time, the Indians not only dread, but hate the 

 Spaniards and even a trace of Spanish blood, or fluency in the language 

 on the part of a dark-skinned or dark-haired person is a warrant for sus- 

 picion. It is not a hatred of the white race. Englishmen, Americans, 

 and Germans are invariably respected and treated well, by the same peo- 

 ple who are either insolent to the Spaniard or treat him at best with 

 restraint. 



On the Atlantic slope, there are three tribes intimately allied socially, 



