THE CUBA REVIE \V 



15 



Black, sizes 7 to 1 — $13.50 to $1-1. 



Cdlored, sizes 7 to 1 — $14 to $14.50. 



Black, misses', $1S to $18.50. 



Colored, misses', $18.50 to $19. 



Generally speaking, men's and boys' Cuban-made shoes sell, wholesale prices, as follows, 

 Spanish gold, 10 per cent off : 



Men's shoes, $2.40 to $2.85 per pair. 



Boys' shoes, $1.90 to $2.10 per pair. 



Retailers usually make a gross profit of 20 to 25 per cent. 



Men's shoes of Spanish manufacture are generally built on 

 Features of the Spanish ^. typically Spanish last, the "Mandrilleno," straight, with 

 CI high instep and full ankle. They are made usually by hand 



in two styles, one with very high arch, having a ten-eights to 

 eleven-eighths heel ; the other with low arch and four-eighths 

 to five-eights heel. Men's Spanish goods are wholly in hand-sewn welts, with the ex- 

 ception of a shoe manufactured by Gornes Hijos, Fiol Hermanos, Ciudadela, whose 

 product is a Goodyear welt. This Goodyear shoe is made principally on a full swing 

 last, with narrow toe, medium arch and ten-eighths to eleven-eighths small heel. Leathers 

 used in the manufacture are a champagne kid, a black kid and a tan kid, all of American 

 tannage, French and German patent leathers, and a very Hght willow calf tanned near 

 Barcelona. In styles bals, bluchers, congress and button and blucher oxfords are fur- 

 nished. The sole leather used is all of Spanish tannage, very white and extremely solid, 

 and has excellent wearing qualities. I am told, however, that on the whole this Spanish 

 shoe gives but medium satisfaction. The wholesale prices of men's shoes (in Spain) 

 range from $36 to $56 per dozen pairs, Spanish silver, and retail in Cuba at $4.30 Spanish 

 silver per pair for those costing $36 per dozen pairs, and at $5.50 per pair same currency 

 for those costing $56 per dozen pairs. All Spanish-made shoes, both men's and women's 

 are classed as medium fine to fine. 



In women's goods I find the Spanish shoe made on French last, having a narrow 

 forepart, much drawn out, medium toe and high instep, with usually a medium high 

 French heel. In some instances the leather-covered Cuban heel is used. These shoes 

 are all hand-made throughout, and hand turned ; they are much lighted in weight than 

 the American ladies' shoe, but lack the good fitting qualities characteristic of the 

 American product. The lasting of the Spanish-made shoe is apt to be deficient, usually 

 having been pulled over but once and left on the last only a short time. Thus fashioned 

 it is impossible for the shoe to keep its shape after a little wear. The wholesale prices 

 of women's shoes of Spanish make laid down in Havana range from $18 to $51 of 

 Spanish gold per dozen pairs. Included in these prices are shoes made from the cheapest 

 sheepskin to the finest vici and patent kids. 



The cheaper grade of shoe is made from a chrome-tanned sheepskin and black cabretta, 

 the sheepskin being tanned in Spain and the cabretta in France and! the United States. 

 The fine grade of Spanish shoes are made from an extra quality of black and champagne 

 kid of American tannage, and patent kids from Germany. A certain quantitv of cheap 

 hand-sewn and pegged shoes are imported from Barcelona. 



Men's shoes of American mamufacture are in good demand 



Popular Svles of Amer- '" Cuba. They are desired on an American last, with narrow 



oi toe, full swing, close edges, high heel (ten eighths to eleven- 



ican anoes eighths), and with a medium sole. The styles in favor are 



bluchers, balmorals, buttons and blucher oxfords, as well as 



sailor ties and pumps. The leathers best liked are vici, black and tan, tan Russia, l^lack 



velour and patent vici; sizes range from 4 to 11, and widths D and E are the more 



largely sold. The characteristic American shapes for men are constantlv erovving in 



popularity. 



The native Cuban prefers the oxford blucher or Initton, or other low-cut shoe, while 

 the Spaniards living on the island more generally favor the high-cut shoe, balmorals, 

 blucher and button. I am informed that workmanship and general appearance are ap- 

 preciated first of all by the Cuban trade, but the quality must be kept up.. Cuba's climate 

 is very hard on leather. Dealers tell me that very few shoes arc ever repaired, and this 

 accounts in part for the great consumption of footwear on the island. The average man, 

 after wearing the soles off a pair of shoes throws them away, though the uppers may 

 still be in good condition. The American shoe is light and preferred l)y the large ma- 

 jority (the United States now holds about 85 per cent of the total trade of Cul^a) for 

 both its good wearing qualities and the great variety of shapes and styles which our 

 manufacturers produce. The Cuban foot is usually small in size, men's slioes ranging 

 from 4 to 9, with few exceptions, the largest sizes imported finding sale among the 

 colored population. In the high cuts, for both men and women, duck linings shokild be 

 used, while in oxfords and other low-cut styles leather linings are wanted. A Cuban 



