April 12, 1889.] 



SCIENCE. 



283 



now entered a wild country, in their nine-days' march through 

 which their sufferings multiplied, and several deaths occurred. 

 Aug. 13, on arriving at Airsibba, the natives presented a bold front, 

 and the party lost five men from poisoned arrows. Lieut. Stairs 

 was wounded below the heart, and suffered greatly, but he recov- 

 ered. Aug. 31 the expedition met a party of Manyema, and their 

 misfortunes began on this date. Stanley writes that he had taken 

 the Kongo route to avoid Arabs who would tempt his men. 

 Within three days of this unfortunate meeting, twenty-six men de- 

 serted. This must have happened not very far distant from the 

 most southern region visited by Junker. 



While crossing the region raided by Arab slave-traders, who, 

 with their Manyema men, came from Stanley Falls, the progress of 

 the caravan was an uninterrupted series of misfortunes. On Sept. 

 18 he left the station of the Arab chief Ugarrava, the expedition 

 numbering 263 men, 66 having been lost by desertion and death, and 

 56 being left sick with Ugarrava. The march led to the Arab set- 

 tlement, Kalinga Longa. The men lived on wild fruits, fungi, and 

 nuts. Before reaching Kalinga Longa, Stanley lost 55 men through 

 starvation and desertion. A slave-owner at Kalinga Longa named 

 Ab ed Salim did his utmost to ruin the expedition short of open 

 hostilities. He insisted upon purchasing rifles, ammunition, and 

 clothing, so that the expedition left the station beggared. The men 

 were absolutely naked, and were so weak that they were unable to 

 carry the boat. Stanley was therefore obliged to leave the boat, 

 together with 70 loads of goods, at Kalinga Longa, under the care 

 of Surgeon Parke and Capt. Nelson, the latter of whom was unable 

 to march. After a twelve-days' journey, the party, Nov. 12, reached 

 Ibwiri. The Arab devastation, which had reached within a few 

 miles of Ibwiri, was so thorough that not a native hut was left 

 standing between Ugarrava and Ibwiri. What the Arabs did not 

 destroy, the elephants destroyed, turning the whole region into a 

 horrible wilderness. 



It appears that Ibwiri is situated in about 29° east longitude, 

 126 miles distant from Lake Mvutan Nzige. In a later passage of 

 his letter, Stanley gives the distance of Kalinga Longa from the 

 lake as 190 miles, which leaves a distance of 64 miles for the line 

 from Kalinga Longa to Ibwiri. The former place may therefore 

 be situated near the sources of the Nepoko. It does not appear 

 clearly where Stanley left the Aruvimi, but it would seem that this 

 happened at Kalinga Longa or near it. This seems the more 

 probable, as he left his boat there. Stanley continues : — 



" Our sufferings terminated at Ibwiri. We were beyond the 

 reach of destroyers. We were on virgin soil in a populous region 

 abounding with food. We ourselves were mere skeletons. From 

 289 persons, we now numbered 174. Several of the party seem- 

 ing to have no hope of life left, a halt was therefore ordered for 

 the purpose of recuperating. Hitherto our people were sceptical 

 of what we told them. The suffering had been so awful, the 

 calamities so numerous, and the forests so endless, that they re- 

 fused to believe that by and by we would see plains and cattle, the 

 Nyanza, and Emin Pacha. They had turned a deaf ear to our 

 prayers and entreaties ; for, driven by hunger and suffering, they 

 sold their rifles and equipments for a few ears of Indian-corn, de- 

 serted with the ammunition, and became altogether demoralized. 

 Perceiving that mild punishment would be of no avail, I resorted 

 to the death-penalty, and two of the worst cases were hanged in 

 the presence of all. We halted for thirteen days at Ibwiri, revel- 

 ling on fowls, goats, bananas, corn, yams, etc. The supplies were 

 inexhaustible, and our people glutted themselves with such effect 

 that we had 173 sleek and robust men. One had been killed with 

 an arrow. 



" When we started for Albert Nyanza, Nov. 24, we were still 

 126 miles from the lake. Given food, the distance seemed nothing. 

 Dec. I we sighted an open country from the top of a ridge con- 

 nected with Mount Pisgah, which was so named from our first 

 view of the land of promise and plenty. Dec. 5 we emerged on 

 the plains, leaving the deadly and gloomy forest behind us. After 

 one hundred and sixty days of continuous gloom we saw the light 

 of broad day shining all around, making all things beautiful. We 

 thought we had never seen grass so green, or a country so lovely. 

 The men literally leaped and yelled with joy, and raced over the 

 ground with their burdens. Ah ! this was the old spirit of former 



expeditions successfully completed, and all suddenly revived. Woe 

 betide the native aggressor whom we may meet ! However power- 

 ful, with such a spirit the men will fling themselves upon him like 

 wolves on sheep. Numbers will not be considered. It was the 

 eternal forest that had made them the abject, slavish creatures so 

 brutally plundered by Arab slaves at Kalinga Longa. 



" At Kilonga Wonga, on the 9th, we entered the country of the 

 powerful chief, Mazamboni. The villages were scattered so thickly 

 that no road except through them could be found. The natives 

 sighted us, but we were prepared. We seized a hill as soon as 

 we arrived in the centre of a mass of villages, and built a seriba as 

 fast as bill-hooks could cut the brushwood. The war cries were 

 terrible, from hill to hill, pealing across the intervening valleys. 

 The people gathered in hundreds at every point, war-horns and 

 drums announcing the struggle. After a slight skirmish, ending 

 in our capturing a cow, the first beef we had tasted since we left 

 the ocean, the night passed peacefully, both sides preparing for the 

 morrow." 



Here Stanley narrates how negotiations with the natives failed, 

 Mazamboni declining a peace offering, and how a detachment of 

 forty persons led by Lieut. Stairs, and another of thirty under com- 

 mand of Mr. Jephson, with sharpshooters, left the zareba, and 

 assaulted and carried the villages, driving the natives into a gen- 

 eral rout. The march was resumed on the 12th. There were 

 constant little fights all along the route. The afternoon of the 

 13th the caravan sighted the Nyanza. The descent from the 

 plateau, which Stanley describes as 5,200 feet above the sea, to 

 the lake, which is 2,300 feet high, seems to have been very difficult. 

 Besides this, the caravan had to suffer from attacks of the natives. 

 The natives of the lake did not receive Stanley kindly, but, for lack 

 of a boat, he was unable to proceed. There were no trees of a 

 size sufficient to make canoes. Here the significant passage oc- 

 curs, " We had used five cases of cartridges in five days' fighting 

 on the plain ; a month of such fighting must exhaust our stock ; " 

 which shows that Stanley's caravan could not be of any assistance 

 to Emin. 



His disappointment must have been great, when, after finally 

 reaching the lake, after having overcome the greatest difficulties, he 

 was compelled to retrace his steps in order to bring his boat, which 

 had been left in Kalinga Longa. He continues : " On Jan. 7 we 

 were in Ibwiri once again. After a few days' rest, Lieut. Stairs, 

 with 100 men, was sent to Kalinga Longa to bring the boat and 

 goods. I also sent Surgeon Parke and Capt. Nelson. Out of the 

 38 sick men in their charge, only 1 1 men were brought to the fort. 

 The rest had died or deserted. 



" On the return of Stairs with the boat and goods, he was sent to 

 Ugarrava. He was to bring up the convalescent. Soon after his 

 departure, I was attacked by gastritis and an abscess on the arm. 

 After a month's careful nursing by Parke, I recovered, and set out 

 again for the Albert Nyanza on April 2, accompanied by Jephson 

 and Parke. Nelson was appointed commandant of Fort Bodo in 

 our absence, with a garrison of 43 men and boys. On April 26 we 

 arrived in Mazamboni's country again. This time, after solicita- 

 tion, Mazamboni decided to make blood brotherhood with me. 

 His example was followed by all the other chiefs as far as the Ny- 

 anza. Every difficulty seemed now to be removed. Food was 

 supplied gratis. Cattle, goats, sheep, and fowls were also given in 

 abundance, so that our people lived royally. 



" When one day's march from the Nyanza, natives came from 

 Kavali and said that a white man named Malejja had given their 

 chief a black packet to give me, his son. Would I follow them, 

 they asked. ' Yes, to-morrow,' I answered. ' And if your words 

 are true, I will make you rich.' They remained with us that night, 

 telling us wonderful stories about big ships as large as islands, 

 filled with men, etc., which left no doubt in our mind that the white 

 man was Emin Pacha. The next day's march brought us to Chief 

 Kavali. After a while he handed me a note from Emin Pacha, 

 covered with a strip of black American oilcloth. The note was to 

 the effect, that, as there had been a native rumor that a white man 

 had been seen at the south end of the lake, he had gone in a 

 steamer to make inquiries, but had been unable to obtain reliable 

 information. He begged me to remain where I was until he could 

 communicate with me. 



