i6 



THE CUBA REVIEW. 



comfortable vehicle, although the article is scarce, and the prosaic "rubber neck" automo- 

 bile; are in evidence and make half hourly trips round about the city, past ihc railroad 

 station, and on to the Playa, where the baths are and the caves. These latter are likewise 

 worth a visit. The heat of the underground caverns has deterred many from venturing, al- 

 massacre of a lot of Indians by the Spaniards and others slyly intimate that it means 

 just the reverse, a great slaughter of the invaders. It would have been better to have 

 retained the old Indian name, Yucayo, so much more melodious and characteristic. 



Don't forget to visit the old Fort of San Severino on the harbor front. It was built 

 in 1692 and takes the shape of a star, the four points bearing the names of Nuestra 

 Senora de la Rosario, Santa Ana, San Antonio and San Ignacio. At the entrance, you 

 will find lying in the long grass some old cannon, some dating back as far as 1622. 



After leaving Matanzas, the run westward to Havana is filled with the most beautiful 

 of scenery. It is a continual succession of charming, picturesque groupings of palms, 

 scarlet hibiscus, thatched huts, and people, that you have ever seen off the stage. Try this 

 trip after you are comfortably settled in Havana, taking the first morning train at Regla, 

 which leaves about 6:30 and you will have an experience so agreeable as to be always 

 remembered. The service of the United Railways is all that can be desired and the 

 comfort of travelers thoroughly looked after. It is a rolling country. We find here 

 Royal Palms in profusion and we pass station after station surrounded with gardens 

 glowing with color. The air is pure and elastic and in the early morning hours in the 

 country, a light overcoat is desirable. But one notices the results of this pure air in 

 the throat and nasal organs. Colds in the head are unknown and pocket handkerchiefs 

 are forgotten. 



It is hard to realize as we look about us that but a few days ago we were in the 

 middle of the bitter cold and snow of the North. A little later in the afternoon, the 

 character of the views begin to change. The ingenios and cane fields become less fre- 

 quent, then cease altogether and the houses have more the appearance of pleasure re- 

 treats. The roads show lines of mules and horses loaded with panniers of fruits or 

 hidden under great loads of fresh fodder, destined for the mules and horses of the city. 

 Pleasure carriages appear, then Castle Atares comes in the landscape, Principe, the har- 

 bor, Morro, the sea, the ships, white, yellow and blue houses and with red tiled roofs 

 and we are in the streets of Havana close to the hovels and strange brown and black 

 faces eagerly watch the car windows for friends. Chinese soldiers, priests come in and 

 we are in the midst of the clanging of bells and the burly burly of noisy Havana. As 

 you ride through the streets what a Gil Bias, Don Qui.xote feeling the names of "posada," 

 "tienda," "viveres," "cantina," "pannderia," etc., give j^ou. 



The buildings interest one at every turn, all in different colors, not garish, but 

 subdued tints prevail, one color over another. It is apparently calcomine and the rain 

 and the sun has obliterated some and brought out others, making as one looks down the 

 street the most fascinating of color combinations. We catch a glimpse of the noble parks 

 and see daintily dressed children playing. Those of 8 and 9 were real little ladies, ahnost 

 stately and womanly in figure and demeanor. The Royal Poncianas are simply gor- 

 geous in great masses of orange colored, blossoms that almost hide the leaves. But the 

 hotel is quickly reached, the principal 



ones being near the railroad station. 

 You have your choice of the Ingla- 

 terra, Pasaje, Telegrafo and Florida, 

 but you w^ill find none of them up 

 to modern requirements. The Hotel 

 Sevilla is now being built and it may 

 possibly be that it will be ready next 

 month. This will be first-class from 

 the American point of view. You 

 will be surprised to find that your 

 first breakfast will be a small afifair, 

 fruit such as oranges, which will be 

 brought to you on a fork and peek'l 

 down to the pulp, pineapples, and 

 if you want a sweet pine, ask for 



NATIVE BAND. 



