6 MATABELE LAND. 
Colenso, Ladysmith, Newcastle, Pretoria, Crocodile 
River, and Bamangwato. . . . This country is not 
to be compared with America. The most of it about 
here is hilly, the hills in places becoming mountains, 
and all covered with coarse dry grass, and scarcely 
a stick of timber. There is nothing to compare with 
the lovely tropical scenery of Central America, or 
the magnificent mountains, prairies, lakes, and rivers 
of the United States. I never expect to admire any 
country so much as I do the western world. Per- 
haps one reason that the North American Indians 
were for savages a superior race was their fine 
scenery." 
Again, from the Umgeni River, a few miles upon 
the journey, he writes. May 1 7th : — 
" We are now fairly on our way. Last night was 
my first night in the waggon, and W.'s second. We 
are 1 3 miles on our way. Our waggons are most 
comfortable. We have a wooden framework in each 
waggon, surmounted by a substantial mattress and 
lots of blankets. We have tin wash-hand basins, 
cups, and plates, and fare luxuriously. Bell is now 
cooking some chops. I am reminded of some very 
pleasant days in the wilds of America." 
Ladysmith was reached on the 24th of May and 
Newcastle on the 31st, a halt of two or three days 
being made at each place. On the 23d of June 
the party arrived at Pretoria, and Frank Oates 
writes from that place, June 27th : — 
" We have now been ' trekking ' {i.e. travelling in 
waggons) for six weeks from yesterday. We have, 
