Photo from Katrice Xicolsuu 

 SOME OF THE MONTENEGRIN VETERANS OF 1860 



streets alone of all the Balkan capitals 

 have never echoed to the tread of a con- 

 quering Turkish host. 



Two broad, parallel streets, connected 

 by irreti'ularly laid out cross streets, com- 

 prise the town, whicli lies hemmed in on 

 every side by the stern hills. The green 

 fields, the elms, the buttercups by the 

 roadside, and the steep gables of the 

 houses, which often lie banked to their 

 eaves with winter's snows, reminded me 

 always of my own White Mountain vil- 

 lages — an im])ressi(:)n which was indeli- 

 bly fixed in my mind on the first morn- 

 ing that I ever saw Cetinje. 



I had reached the capital late on a 

 Saturday evening. The next day was 

 set for the inauguration of the new Na- 

 tional Theater, and the people were out 

 in force to cheer their ruler as he went 

 from the palace. The hotel at Cetinje 

 stands at the head of the main street, 

 which was filled with Montenegrins in 

 national garb, and as I stepped upon the 

 balcony after my coflfee and looked down 

 upon the throng of red-jacketed moun- 

 taineers, I thought for all the world that 

 T was in some New England iiill town 

 on the day of a firemen's muster. 



Kuropean dress has made slight in- 

 roads in this part of the world. The 

 army now, thanks to Russian generosity, 

 wears khaki : but the guard of honor 



which accompanied mc to the palace 

 when I presented my letters of credence 

 were ir Zvlontenegrin garb, and the pal- 

 ace attendants still wear it. It is the 

 habitual dress of both King and Oueen, 

 the latter having pointedly refused the 

 suggestion of her daughters-in-law that, 

 together with the royal title, she should 

 take on modern gowns. 



COSTI.V HIS HABIT AS II IS TURSE CAN BUY 



A Montenegrin's habit is as costly as 

 his purse can buy, and there the apparel 

 proclaims the man. The baggy blue trou- 

 sers are the same for the King or the 

 peasant, as is the gaily colored sash 

 wdiich holds the invariable revolver. But 

 from the red jacket, whether it be em- 

 bi-oidered with black or with gold, and 

 from the redingote. whether it be of dark 

 green or a dehcate blue, one connotes 

 whether the w^earer be a man of sub- 

 stance and conse(|uence or not. 



Among the women there are slighter 

 distinctions. All wear a simple dark skirt, 

 a more or less elaborate blouse, and a 

 redingote of blue, though for the peas- 

 ants the outer garment is likely to be of 

 a coarse woolen stuff of home manu- 

 facture. 



Men and women alike wear the black- 

 banded red cap, the crown embroidered 

 for the women with some fanciful de- 



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