January 17, 1890.] 



SCIENCE 



2>7 



two miles out to sea, will arrive at the shore near Sette Cama. 

 This current is not felt beyond Cape Lopez, for its effect is neu- 

 tralized by the rivers Gabun and Ogowe. 



When a vessel coming from the north arrives at about thirty 

 •miles from the mouth of the river, it crosses a clearly marked line 

 on the surface of the water. On the side of this line towards the 

 Atlantic the water is of the greenish, milky color which announces 

 the proximity of land ; on the other, it has the characteristic color 

 of the river, a brownish yellow. The ship has now entered the 

 waters of the river, though the land is scarcely yet visible. The 

 pilot-signals, buoys, and landmarks set up by the Government, 

 render it a very easy task to take a ship into the port of Banana. 

 After skirting the bank at the point, she enters at once into a mag- 

 nificent bay, where a whole fleet could ride at anchor. This port 

 "far surpasses all others along the coast, and it is astonishing that 

 no one thought of occupying a spot so favorably situated at the 

 mouth of one of the mightiest rivers-of the globe until some slave- 

 traders in the present century took up their quarters at Banana 

 Point. Cases of illness are rare, and invalids speedily recover in 

 this healthy spot. The heat is rendered supportable by the sea- 

 i)reeze, which blows from ten o'clock in the morning. 



The basin of the Kongo and its affluents has an area of about 

 386,000 square miles, more than thirty-three times the area of Bel- 

 gium, and nearly as large as Holland, Belgium, France, Switzer- 

 land, Italy, and Ireland united. The navigable waters of the basin 

 ■measure together about 7,140 miles in length. The length of both 

 banks of the navigable waterways, 14,280 miles, is about that of the 

 ■coast-line of Europe from North Cape to Constantinople. In addi- 

 tion to this, the Lower Kongo extends for about 120 miles from the 

 mouth to Matadi, where the region of cataracts commences, and 

 -consists of two portions differing considerably in character. From 

 Matadi to the He des Princes, or thereabouts, wild scenery, steep 

 mountains, and torrents falling headlong into the river show that 

 the volcanic forces which formed the region of the cataracts ex- 

 tended their energy over this district also. Below this island the 

 river expands at once to double, and a little lower down to three 

 times, its former breadth, and at last measures about twelve miles 

 across instead of two miles and a half. It is studded with numer- 

 ous islands, larger streams flow into it, its banks and the hills be- 

 side it are rounded, and the whole country has a tame appearance. 

 Between Boma and Ponta da Lenha the islands are only banks of 

 sand covered with grasses and sickly-looking shrubs, but below that 

 ■point they bear a luxuriant vegetation. 



A further diversity in the vegetation and soy is caused by the 

 tides. The salt water ascends the river as far as Malella, so that, 

 while the islands above are covered with oil-palms, baobabs, and 

 ■wild cotton, on those towards the mouth of the river the effect of 

 the tide may be seen in the increase of bamboos and the diminish- 

 dng number of palms, etc. The latter islands are submerged at 

 exceptionally high tides, whereas those above Malella have a fairly 

 ■dense population. As soon also as the fresh water is entered, alli- 

 gators and hippopotami are met with. 



The navigation of the Lower Kongo is rendered difficult and 

 ■dangerous by the rapid changes that take place in the depths of the 

 ■channels. Some twenty years ago steamers always followed the 

 northern bank between Ponta da Lenha and Boma, for the Fetish 

 Rock passage was practicable only for crafts drawing less than six 

 feet, whereas now this passage has a depth of about 190 feet, while 

 ■opposite Kanga a boat drawing eleven feet of water would cer- 

 tainly touch ground. Several other similar cases might be quoted. 

 Again, when the tidal waves are urged forwards with more than 

 usual violence by the wind, which generally blows from the sea 

 from ten o'clock in the morning, the struggle of these waves with 

 the waters of the river is so tierce that it is felt as far as Binda, 

 ninety-three miles froin the mouth. At such times boats are 

 ■obliged to keep close to the banks, or they would be swamped im- 

 mediately. Ocean steamers ascend as far as Boma, and small 

 steamers belonging to the Kongo State ply along the river up to Ma- 

 tadi. From the soundings taken by Captain Boye, however, which 

 .show that the channel is nowhere less than sixty feet deep, it is 

 •considered that large steamers may safely ascend to Matadi at a 

 speed of nine to ten knots. The large quantities of water which 

 ■are poured .into the river during the rainy season cause great 



changes of level. The water rises gradually through June, July, 

 and August, and attains a maximum height between the i3lh and 

 25th of September, after which it decreases up to the middle of 

 February, and attains a second but lower maximum at the end of 

 April. 



North of the river, between Banana and Ponta da Lenha, lies an 

 arid plain. The soil is a compact clay interspersed with lagoons, 

 which are flooded at high tide, and are covered with impenetrable 

 vegetation, chiefly papyrus. At a distance of from three to twelve 

 miles from the river the country entirely changes its aspect : here 

 hills, 300 feet high, are separated by broad valleys, and the soil is 

 light, and no doubt very fertile. Fifty to fifty-five miles from the 

 river, Mayumba — i.e., the land of forests — is entered, which sup- 

 plies the greater part of the merchandise shipped from the ports of 

 the Lower Kongo, and of the coast between that river and the Ga- 

 bun. 



Four tribes inhabit this country ; the Mussorongos, who dwell 

 on both banks of the river and the islands between Ponta da Lenha 

 and Banana, the N'Zaadi along the river to the east of the Musso 

 rongos, the Kacongos to the north of these tribes, and, beyond the 

 Kacongos again, the Mayumbas. The natives have a gentle dis- 

 position, and their barbarities are due entirely to the" old-estab- 

 lished rites of fetichism. They attack a village on slight provoca- 

 tion, but disturbances among the inhabitants of the same village 

 are very rare. Drunkenness, except perhaps at the great feasts, is 

 not a common vice. They are by no means impervious to new 

 ideas, and, if the Government can put down the tribal wars, they 

 will probably make great progress in civilization. 



Between Matahdi and Stanley Pool merchandise has at present 

 to be carried overland at great expense. A railway has therefore 

 been projected to connect the upper and lower parts of the river, 

 and thus provide a cheaper and more commodious means of trans- 

 port from the interior. The distance, as the crow flies, is 174 miles, 

 but the railway, in order to take advantage of the formation of the 

 ground, and avoid all great engineering difficulties, will be ex- 

 tended to a length of 264 miles. The cost is estimated at ;^i,ooo,- 

 000 sterling. 



A new edition of three sheets of M. Lannoy de Bissy's map of 

 Africa, which embrace the greater part of the Kongo territory, has 

 been published. Several important changes may be observed in 

 this edition, particularly near the cataract region. The French 

 Rouvier Mission has furnished more complete and exact infor- 

 mation than has hitherto been attainable regarding the course of 

 the Kuilu and the country north of Manyanga ; and the Belgian 

 Cainbier Mission has supplied details concerning the country on 

 the south bank, between Matadi and Leopoldville. The survey for 

 the railway has also determined the position of many points more 

 exactly. The position of Mboko Songo has been removed about 

 20' towards the north, and therefore the sources of the Chiluango, 

 in the neighborhood of this place, have undergone a similar dis- 

 placement, whereby the basin of the Kongo, and consequently the 

 territory of the Kongo State, have been enlarged. The middle 

 course of this river has also undergone changes in direction, and 

 its affluents, the Luisa and Luali on its right bank, and the Lukula, 

 on its left, are represented as the important streams they really 

 are. The tributaries also which enter the Kongo in the region 

 of the cataracts are put down from their sources to their con- 

 fluences. 



Between Stanley Pool and Kwamouth the river runs swiftly be- 

 tween mountains often six hundred to one thousand feet high, and 

 covered with forests. Only at Msuata is this barrier broken. Here 

 the land rises from the shore in terraces, and is inhabited. As far 

 as Chumbiri the river widens very gradually, but above it expands 

 considerably, and is generally very broad all the way to Stanley 

 Falls : it is often fifteen, and sometimes as much' as twenty-one, 

 miles across. Between Bolobo and Lukokela a marshy tract oc- 

 curs, a slight blemish on this beautiful river. 



All along the banks of the Upper Kongo are frequent villages, 

 and even towns. Bolobo, for instance, has a population of 30,000 

 souls, public squares, and regularly built streets. Considering the 

 enormous length of waterways, and the fertility of the soil, the new 

 railway, by which all the exports must reach the Lower Kongo, 

 should prove a success. 



