SPHINOlD.li OP PERU. 79 



Here the scenery becomes truly grand and impressive, and the Chanchamayo road, a 

 mere ledge of 10 or 12 feet, cut along the side of an immense precipice and alter- 

 nating from the concave to the convex round rocky projections, threads its way for 

 many miles on a steady dovpn-grade. The chill of the heights is now exchanged for 

 tropical warmth and a balmy scented atmosphere. The butterflies' wings are at once 

 more brilliantly coloured, a large species of the Caligo genus puts in an appearance 

 just short of Huacapistana Hotel (recognised as the gate of the Interior proper), and 

 if by the time you reach Pan de Azucar (Sugar-loaf Mountain) you have not had your 

 balance disturbed by the dazzling spectacle of Morpho didius, as large as your hat and 

 as blue as heaven, you will indeed be out of luck. 



Though strongly tempted here to expatiate upon the wonders and beauties of this 

 supremely lovely country, I must desist, and for further descriptions refer any reader 

 who is interested to two small works, illustrated by numerous photo-engravings, which 

 I brought out in Lima *. 



Peru is so far away from our northern island home, that, apart from its commercial 

 aspects and its business connections, it is little visited by those best qualified to deal 

 with its great natural features. In vain did I look for illustrated guides, or for hand- 

 books on its botany and entomology, which even in brief and popular outline would 

 have served to introduce one to some of its local treasures. And thus it is that 1 was 

 emboldened to take to journalism and write on my own account. 



The want of books of reference, though keenly felt, and the absence of local savants 

 to afford enlightenment, acted, however, as incentives urging one to use one's own 

 eyes and wits, and to develop one's powers of observation. As for the illustrations, 

 I can only claim that every care was taken to render them life-like in attitude and true 

 to form, size, and colour, without exaggeration. I am aware that in such a matter 

 I have the advantage of my critics, and that I am tacitly assuming a trust which may 

 not in all cases be readily granted, but until colour-photography reaches that stage 

 of perfection when it can be taken in hand with fair success by any enterprising 

 amateur, I can see no other way than that adopted of exhibiting in Europe a kind of 

 creature which passes a very transitory existence in far-off' Peru, and which, in a very 

 considerable number of instances, not only rivals its imaginal form in delicacy of 

 design and. colour, but is in the fullest degree as curious and rare and beautiful as the 

 prized orchid which constitutes so marked a feature of its floral environment. 



A glance at the shaded portion of the map (PI. VI.) will show my full area of research. 

 To secure perfect accuracy in such a matter would be almost impossible and would serve 

 no particular purpose in the end. The map is, nevertheless, true to the main features 

 given in two sections of Eaimondi's Ordnance Survey, and for the shading, vi^hich 



* '■A Souvenir of the Oroya Railroad,' 2s. &d. net, and ' A Trip into the Interior of Peru,' 5s. net. Published 

 hy C. F. Southwell, Lima, and to be obtained of James Cornish S( Sons, Lord Street, Liverpool. 



