18 CHAPTER II. 



by. Over yonder three black cock, magnificent fellows, rear their 

 heads and give a preliminary look before they whirl away. There, a 

 hare, mate to the jack-rabbit at home, departing in leisurely fashion 

 to some new spot; and in green banks, here and there, rabbits, hun- 

 dreds of rabbits, popping in and out of burrows, like figures in a highly 

 animated pantomime. 



The old motor churned noisily and sturdily on, surely eating up 

 the miles with a healthy hunger. I talked very little with the man 

 who drove me. My eyes and my thoughts kept me busy. He spoke 

 not at all, unless I addressed him, and seemed oblivious of my 

 presence. But when I strove to light a pipe against the difficulties of 

 the wind of our passage, he stopped without a word and took a match 

 box from his own pocket to proffer me the lighted brand, which 

 sufficed. 



It was thus I had my first glimpse of that fine courtesy and gentle 

 consideration for one's comfort which never thereafter was far from 

 me while I was in Scotland. 



The distance measure within told me we had come more than 

 twenty-five miles, when, swinging a hill shoulder, I saw to the right 

 a longish loch. Beyond it were mountains rising sharply; between 

 its end and us two bridges crossing separate streams, the one a large 

 flow of water which came from the foot of the loch, the other a 

 small one which was quite near. As we drove upon the larger 

 bridge I saw near where the loch stream had its source the figures 

 of men, and as we approached one of these passed the rod he held to 

 another and drew near. It was the Chief, a welcoming light in his 

 eyes and a glad smile of greeting on his lips. The last time we had 

 met had been at Quebec, in far Canada, and now we clasped hands 

 again at the lower end of Loch Ailish at the foot of the Mount 

 Benmore. 



Greetings over he told me the day had been so misty that he, no 

 guests being present, had cut deer stalking for the time and come 

 to try the salmon. He had killed two fine fish, and was not ill- 

 pleased with his day. To his question of what I would like to do, 

 the time being then about four o'clock in the afternoon, I said, of 

 course, "Anything you like." 



"Well," he inquired, "how would it suit you to take a little walk, 



