TTIS MULE. 101 



other part of the foot. If it project beyond the shoo, 

 so much the better. That is what it was made for, and 

 to catch the weight on an elastic principle. Never, 

 under any circumstances, cut it away. Put two nails 

 in the shoe on each side, and both forward of. the 

 quarters, and one in the toe, directly in front of the 

 foot. Let those on the sides be an inch apart, then 

 you will be sure not to cut and tear the foot. Let the 

 nails and nail-holes be small, for they will then aid in 

 saving the foot. It will still further aid in saving it by 

 letting the nails run well up into the hoof, for that keeps 

 the shoe steadier on the foot. The hoof is just as 

 thick to within an inch of the top, and is generally 

 sounder, and of a better substance, than it is at the 

 bottom. Keep the first reason for shoeing apparent 

 in your mind always — that you only shoe your mule 

 because his feet will not stand the roads without it. 

 And whenever you can, shoe him with a shoe exactly 

 the shape of his foot. Some blacksmiths will insist on 

 a shoe, and then cutting and shaping the foot to it. 

 The first or central surface of the hoof, made hard by 

 the animal's own peculiar way of traveling, indicates 

 the manner in which he should be shod. All the art in 

 the world cannot improve this, for it is the model pre- 

 pared by nature. Let the shoes be as light as possible, 

 and without calks if it can be afforded, as the mule 

 always travels unsteady on them. The Goodenough 

 shoe is far superior to the old ^calked shoe, and will 

 answer every purpose where holding is necessary. It is 

 also good in mountainous countries, and there is no 

 danger of the animal calking himself with it. I have 



