Breedixg Black Bantams. ^ 463 



pets, where large fowls could not be thought of, they make quite as good a return for the food they 

 consume, which is very little, as their larger brethren. Their eggs are exceedingly rich and 

 nutritious, having a very large yolk in proportion to the white. The flavour is not so strong as 

 that of ordinary eggs, and for this reason especially suited for invalids, and for making custards, &c. 



" I commenced my Bantam career in 1863, by purchasing a pen for thirty shillings, and won a 

 prize at a small show the first time I exhibited them. For the first three years, however, I was not 

 very successful either in breeding good birds or winning prizes. I committed the common mistake 

 of most amateur beginners, viz., continually buying second or third-rate birds, which could never 

 win in a good show or breed good stock, at a cost sufficient to make my hobby a serious loss, but 

 not expensive enough to make it pay. I was afraid to invest a good sum in really good birds, and 

 my experience has taught me that, whether a poultry-yard is started with the idea of making it 

 pay, or from a mere desire of the honour of winning cups and prizes, it must be done well and 

 without stint. 



" The points necessary to constitute a good Black Bantam cock, whether for breeding purposes 

 or exhibition, are as follow ; — A perfectly white ear-lobe of moderate size, round, substantially 

 thick, and with an enamel-looking glaze on it. Comb neat, flat, a bright coral-red, well spiked on 

 the top, and terminating at the back in a well-developed pike, inclining a little up rather than down 

 on the head. Plumage abundant, and a good black, with a metallic green or blue lustre, the former 

 preferred. Legs black, or deep slate-colour, small, and taper. There is some diff'erence of opinion 

 as to shape and style, some people thinking a Black Bantam should be drooping in the wing, and 

 carry the tail over the back, like Sebrights. My ideas, however, and those which predominate at 

 most shows now are, that they should be tight in feather, wings well up and close, sickles long, well 

 arched, and rather drooping, the whole carriage being smart and gamey. The hens I prefer 

 moderately long in leg, as they show off better. 



" In selecting birds for breeding, great care should be taken to secure those most nearly 

 approaching perfection, but never choose one with a glaring defect because it happens to have one 

 or two other points very good. Three hens, or four at most, are enough for one cock ; and here let 

 me remark that, in opposition to the common idea that birds related to, each other should never be 

 mated together, I have proved, and am therefore convinced, that to a moderate extent, and with 

 judgment, the system can be carried out with much benefit. The chickens come better in all 

 points, and have much more quality about them, than when they are bred from the first cross of 

 a cock from a different strain, introduced for fresh blood. This sj-stem can be followed to a 

 greater extent in breeding Bantams than the large breeds, as size, which is the point in which they 

 mostly deteriorate under the system, is not required. 



" To get them as small as possible. Bantams are generally hatched very late in the season 

 Birds so hatched, however, are always deficient in plumage and style, and I prefer to set my hens 

 in April or May, and stand the chance of the chicks growing large. They are rather delicate when 

 about six weeks or two months old, as they grow their feathers very fast at that period, and are 

 almost in full plumage at three months. They do not require a large run, and will do well on a 

 lawn or in a kitchen garden, the hen being cooped. A farm-yard would be a ready-made grave- 

 yard for them. Egg and bread-crumbs, and barley or oatmeal is the best food for them at first ; 

 afterwards grits occasionally, which they are very fond of Any artificial or forcing food I consider 

 bad for any fowl, but especially Bantams. When about four months old, I separate the cockerels 

 and pullets. By this means several of the former can be kept together, whereas, even at that 

 early age, being very fussy and pugnacious, they would fight and disfigure one another if left 

 with the pullets. 



