THE COOKERY OF VENISON 289 



never have been watered with indestructible irrigation 

 works, and then, when the Moslems were pushing 

 their adventurous enterprise, the grandsire of Charle- 

 magne would not have had the chance of saving the 

 Church and Christendom in the carnage on the field 

 of Tours. 



But we are soaring a flight considerably above 

 the cooking-range, Grove's, and the London Tavern. 

 Turtle and venison ! they are the symbols of civic 

 luxury. We dare to say that the typical haunch, 

 with all that precedes and follows it, from the iced 

 punch and Madeira to the curious old cognac, has 

 done more than the example of Whittington or 

 Gresham to animate aspirants to the gown and the 

 golden chain. It is like the leg of mutton on the 

 greased pole scrambled for by ragged tatterdemalions. 

 But that mutton, as the may-fly on the stream, is 

 swallowed and gone, whereas the civic haunch is 

 perpetually renewed, and a thing of joy that ever 

 repeats itself. The pity of it is that the alderman 

 cannot revive the edge of his appetite as the houris 

 of the Mahommedan Paradise renew their blushing 

 charms. Surfeit will lead on to satiety, and venison 

 and burgundy with sedentary habits end in the 

 gout, dyspepsia, and doctors' fees. We shall have 

 something to say about sauces afterwards, but after 



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