PRUNING 83 



these main branches make a growth of more than 3 

 feet the first year they may be bent back, without 

 breaking or cutting them, the middle of July. This 

 bending will check the growth somewhat and will 

 cause these shoots to lay on a greater proportion of 

 growth near the base. It is specially understood that 

 these main shoots are to be formed near the ground — • 

 the first one 6 to 18 inches from the ground — it being 

 not worth while to practice close pruning on high- 

 headed trees. 



3. The second spring the four main branches 

 should be severely cut back. This cutting will be done 

 at a distance of 12 to. 24 inches from the main stem, 

 18 to 20 inches being preferred. 



4. During the second summer two secondary 

 branches should be allowed to form on each of these 

 primary branches, all others being rubbed out as soon 

 as they start. This is most quickly, easily and econom- 

 ically accomplished by rubbing with the hand protected 

 by a glove. A light pair of pruning shears will do the 

 work. On good soil these secondary branches may 

 easily make a growth of 4 to 6 feet, in which case they 

 should be bent back in mid-July as advised for the first 

 summer. 



5. In February or March of the third year the 

 secondary branches should ' e headed back, leaving 

 the stubs 18 to 20 inches long. 



6. During the third summer one, two or three ter- 

 tiary branches, normally two, will be formed on each 

 secondary branch. Summer pruning will still be 

 followed in order to insure the development of these 

 tertiary branches by rubbing or clipping out all other 

 shoots as soon as they start. These third-year shoots 

 which are left may make such a strong growth that 



