MECCA TO FIGTREE JOHN I77 



see-you-bet." I gathered, however, that some local 

 authority was bent upon breaking up the few re- 

 maining tribal customs of these harmless people, 

 such as the periodical fiesta and the use of their 

 Indian language. It seems odd that Indian officials 

 are so enthralled by the repressive idea, which may 

 be summed up as "See what those confounded 

 Indians are doing and make them stop it." 



I slept well with Jake's scanty hay pile for mat- 

 tress, but was aware once or twice of thunder, light- 

 ning, and sprinklings of rain. Just before dawn 

 there came a splitting crash right overhead. I jumped 

 up and found a partial shelter, which only enabled 

 me to soak piecemeal instead of going in for a whole- 

 hearted sousing at once, which would have been 

 much more comfortable. A mare and colt that had 

 been my neighbors all night, gradually nibbling my 

 mattress away, dashed wildly about at every flash 

 and roar. Kaweah was not interested; he had hay 

 to attend to, and munched on, sloppy but happy. 



The farthest outpost of civilization in this direc- 

 tion is the Oasis Ranch, a flourishing spot where, 

 owing to plentiful water, desert life is almost luxu- 

 rious. I had meant to camp there for one night, but 

 the cordial welcome I met from the caretakers and 

 from some friendly people who owned adjoining 

 land was too much for me: though the oranges, 

 grapes, and melons, with the charms of a reservoir 

 big enough for swimming-pool, also had weight. It 

 would be my last taste of such pleasures for a pretty 

 long spell, and I willingly succumbed to a three 

 days' stay. Pasturage moreover was plentiful, and 



