THE COOKERY OF THE TROUT 263 



compared to other trout of the lakes, he is worth but 

 little for the'table. The dull red flesh of the cannibal 

 par excellence with the sinister name, is inclined to 

 choke you off, should you see him split in the kitchen. 

 But even with him there are differences, and the 

 most edible are to be found in Loch Awe and the 

 lakes in Western Sutherland, with the single ex- 

 ception of Loch Ericht the loftiest lake of any of 

 its size in the British Islands which may be taken to 

 be the natural home of the Ferox, and where he is of 

 unrivalled strength, though of moderate proportions. 

 The gillaroo, another variety of the lake-trout, to be 

 caught in North Irish and West Highland waters, is 

 better flavoured, though of less formidable shapes. 

 Like the bull-trout the Salmo erix of the borders, 

 it is broad across the shoulders and thick in propor- 

 tion to its length. And by way of postscript we may 

 mention there is one notable peculiarity in the Nor- 

 wegian trout as compared to the Scottish. The latter 

 when in season seem to be unaffected by temperature. 

 With the Norwegians, on the contrary, when the 

 temperature gets much above 56, they lose flavour 

 and condition with startling rapidity. 



For the processes of cookery, on the principle 

 of seniores priores, we give precedence to Izaac 

 Walton's old-fashioned recipe. 



