THE COOKERY OF THE TROUT 265 



St. Ronan's recipe for the red trout of Tweed, Izaac 

 seems to go somewhat far in the spiceries. But he 

 knew the trout of the Lea in the seventeenth century 

 better than we do, and his prescription has a romantic, 

 old-world savour, like his sheets fragrant with lavender. 

 Some respectable authorities say the sea-trout should 

 never be boiled, in which we differ : toujours the broil 

 must become tiresome at last. But when the trout 

 are boiled, simplicity should be studied. ' Put the 

 fish into nearly boiling water, with a tablespoonful of 

 salt. Boil up quickly, then simmer till done. For a 

 pound, allow twelve minutes ; for two pounds, fifteen 

 minutes ; for three pounds, twenty minutes. If the 

 trout be unexceptionable serve with melted butter.' 

 If, as Mrs. Peyser has it, you must seek the flavour in 

 the cruets, you may break out in a broad variety of 

 sauces. But undoubtedly broiling and frying are the 

 preferable methods of treatment. To fry small trout 

 clean, wash and dry roll in flour, and fry in butter 

 or clarified dripping to a delicate brown, and do not 

 overdo. Use a heated cloth to absorb the grease, 

 and serve with frizzled parsley and slices of lemon 

 With larger fish, rub wilh flour or oatmeal, and fry 

 in a deep pan, immersing them in butter, clarified 

 dripping, or lard, heated so that the fish shall neither 

 be scorched nor stewed. Or, if they are to be broiled, 



