266 THE TROUT 



split, wipe very dry, dust, and use a clear, moderate 

 fire. As for baking, we cannot conscientiously re- 

 commend it, but here is the method : ' Place the 

 trout in a deep pan, scatter pieces of butter in it. 

 vSeason without and in the inside with allspice, mace 

 and salt. Baste, from time to time, with what collects 

 in the basting pan.' If you do bake your fish, we 

 are inclined to think it is better served cold, when the 

 fancy may have free range as to condiments, and it 

 may be sent up with a seasoning of Chili vinegar and 

 bay leaves. 



Here is another and a somewhat simpler recipe 

 for stewing than Mr. Touchwood's : ' Clean the fish 

 well. If large, cut them in fillets. Rub inside with 

 salt and spices ; lay them in a stewpan and cover with 

 good stock, with two onions, some black peppercorns, 

 cloves and a bit of mace. When the fish have stewed 

 for a few minutes, add two glasses of white wine, a 

 little lemon and cayenne, and perhaps an anchovy. 

 Add a teaspoonful of mushroom ketchup.' Stewing 

 is all very well for eels ; but in our judgment it is 

 scarcely orthodox for delicate trout. We should opine 

 that the gourmet who orders a trout to be stewed 

 in spices, condemns it as undeserving more respectful 

 treatment. Yet we need hardly say we hesitate to 

 dispute the authority of the monks of Melrose, who 



