THE COOKERY OF THE TROUT 271 



A good variation for dressing a fine trout is the 

 a la A r orvege, one of the culinary triumphs of the 

 late accomplished chef at the Wyndham Club. 

 There the special flavour was given to the sauce which 

 somehow was a subtle reminder of the fjords and the 

 fir woods, by a strong infusion of chopped chives 

 and Tarragon. 



Small trout, more or less tasteless, when no better 

 are to be had may be disguised with the luscious 

 stuffing, a la Conde. ' They are cut to an equal 

 length, cleared of their bones, filled with a truffle- 

 quenelle forcemeat, and wrapped up separately in a 

 strip of paper. They are cooked in a good stock, 

 but with little liquid, and allowed to cool in their 

 stock. Afterwards they are unfolded, trimmed, 

 warmed at the entrance of the oven, with their 

 residue reduced to a half-set glaze. At the moment 

 of serving the trout are dished in a circular form, 

 in an upright position, on a border of quenelle force- 

 meat, ornamented, poached, and turned out in a 

 dish, in the centre of which is fixed a bread-support, 

 made of dried bread, masked with forcemeat ; on 

 this support a small cronstade made of bread and 

 paste is solidly fixed. This croiistade is garnished 

 with a buisson of large blanched and trimmed oysters. 

 On each trout is placed a slice of truffle. Serve with 



