Pruning and Thinning 277 



tage in training the framework of a young tree. It may 

 also increase fruit production if timed correctly. How- 

 over, so many varying factors affect the time element that 

 it is impossible to give exact dates at which summer 

 pruning may be done to increase fruit production. The 

 average grower should refrain from inaugurating this 

 practice until a better understanding is had of its effects. 

 Water-sprouts and a few superfluous branches may be re- 

 moved to advantage during the summer months. 



PRUNING TOOLS 



The tool equipment will vary with the man and with 

 the type of work. In the eastern region practically all 

 of the labor is done with a small hand shears and a saw. 

 With these two tools, a pruner can do practically all that 

 will be required in bearing trees and most of the work in 

 young trees. 



Cheap shears and those with coil springs are undesir- 

 able. The former are easily sprung and the latter easily 

 broken. The shears should be 7 to 9 inches in length, 

 the latter usually being preferred. 



A saw on which the teeth are set to cut on the " pull " 

 is less tiring to the pruner. Saws with teeth on both 

 edges are objectionable since they frequently injure the 

 bark. In some sections a swivel or hack saw is used. 

 This type is a modification of a butcher's saw equipped 

 with swivels that permit very thin, narrow, fine-toothed 

 blades being set on the bias. It cuts rather slowly in the 

 case of large limbs, but is particularly good for small cuts 

 and for removing limbs in tight places. The cuts made 

 are clean and smooth. 



Pole pruners, 6 to 10 feet in length, are useful in prun- 



