316 THE COOKERY OF VENISON 



have we seen an old goat marinaded, when meant to 

 do duty for chamois in the hostelries of the Alps. 



The collops, like a civet, come in usefully when 

 the deer has been long hung and perhaps overhung. 

 The civet of fresh venison is sure to be tough and 

 indigestible. Because, for the civet, steaks are to be 

 cut from shoulder or breast, although sometimes it is 

 made of chops which come from the back ribs. As 

 the meat is likely to be lean, fry some bacon in butter, 

 and when melted drain off most of the liquid. Brown 

 the steaks in the liquor, mixing with wine and soup 

 stock. Add vegetables and savoury herbs at discretion 

 onions and mushrooms are specially recommended. 



Roedeer, by the way, makes an excellent civet ; 

 it used to be a speciality at the sylvan Restaurant 

 Henri Quatre at St. Germains-en-laye. 



Historically and gastronomically the pasty ranks 

 next to the haunch. It is economical, too, for any- 

 thing may be used for it, although the breast is gene- 

 rally preferred. Cut the pieces small, trimming away 

 bone and skin. Bones and unconsidered trimmings 

 make excellent gravy. Distribute impartially the fat 

 and the lean ; if the fat fall short, as is probable, 

 supplement with good mutton, season with pepper, 

 &c., pour in the gravy, with the indispensable addi- 

 tions of red wine and white vinegar ; do not forget to 



