INTRODUCTION TO CRYPTOGAMIC BOTANY. 253 



any discriminate selection of species. As, however, no fatal 

 accidents are ever heard of from the use of katsup, it is pro- 

 bable that the most poisonous species are rejected, and that 

 the principal evil is merely one of adulteration, and the loss of 

 the fine flavour of the real article ; or else the poison may be 

 modified by the culinary process which it undergoes, and the 

 admixture of salt and spices. Truffles are found only at the 

 tables of the rich, for they always bear a high price, though, if 

 there were any great demand for them, the markets might be 

 easily supplied ; for they are far more common in calcareous 

 districts than is generally supposed. Our indigenous species 

 are either small, or if large have a flavour far inferior to the 

 common species of the Paris markets. They have, however, 

 a very dehcate aroma, and if dressed by simj^le roasting are 

 by no means a despicable article of food. The most delicate 

 of all our Fungi, Agaricus Oreades, is comparatively neglected 

 and seldom comes into our markets ; and there are some fifty 

 or sixty other species, which afford wholesome food, which are 

 passed by or neglected from ignorance of their qualities. Acci- 

 dents, however, so frequently happen from the use of improper 

 species, that people are afraid of using the most innocent ; and, 

 unhappily, there is evidence that species accounted the most 

 wholesome, even A. campestris, has sometimes proved destruc- 

 tive. It is, indeed, excluded from Italian markets, as most 

 pernicious.* Now, as Fungi form a very important part of the 

 food of many European districts, and are largely preserved for 

 winter use, and that without mvich discrimination, the unwhole- 

 someness of these productions in our own country may possibly 

 depend upon some peculiarity of constitution, for there is no evi- 

 dence to show that particular species abound more in pernicious 

 alkalies in one country than in another. In France the uncer- 

 tainty of Fungi is considered so great, that no Agaric is admitted 

 into the Paris market except Agaricus campestris, and I be- 

 lieve exclusively those which are cultivated. They are, however, 

 consumed extensively in many parts of France, to the great 



* On this and many interesting matters, Dr. Badbam's work on Escu- 

 lent Fungi should be consulted. The root of Tetracjonolohus siliquosus 

 smeUs like fine truffles. 



