754 Ex. Doc. No. 4r 



Tepast, which we \vashed down with delicious water from the little 

 arroya that flows by the village of Cienega. ' 



Iii a little while we reached Agua Fria, and soon came in sight 

 of the city of Santa Fe. By the roadside we saw many cortejos, 

 some half shaded with cotton-wood trees and surrounded by corn 

 fields. Soon Fort Marcy came in view, and our glorious flag, with 

 its graceful stripesj playing in the wind;^and before the sun went 

 down we found ourselves once more in the capital of New Mexico. 



October 3. — We employed the day in packing up our collection 

 of minerals, bird skins, and the like, in order to send them on to 

 the department as soon as possible, 



I called on Colonel Doniphan, and spoke to him with regard to 

 the" procuring of an escort through the country of the Navajoe^; 

 he most willingly offered me every facility, and proposed giving 

 me a letter to Colonel Jackson, who was now near Cibolleta, and 

 he would furnish the escort. 



In the evening we visited Fort Marcy. It is situated on a 

 prominent point of the bluffs commanding the city. The distance 

 of the centre of this work, from the flag-staff in the plaza, is but 

 664 yards. The whole of the interior is defiladed from all th-e sur- 

 rounding heights w^ithin range; 10 guns may be brought to bear 

 upon the city. The slopes are revetted with adobes. The block- 

 house and magazine are constructed of pine logs one foot square. 

 The only approachable point is guarded by the block-house, which 

 also assists to protect the entrance of the fort. 



October 4. — We were early awakened with the ringing of the 

 carapanetasj summoning the good citizens of Santa Fe to morn- 

 ing mass at the parroquia, or parish church. I _ had a great 

 desire to see the interior of this church, which, with the " Capilla 

 de los Soldados," are said to be the two oldest churches in the 

 place, and were doubtless those alluded to by Pike, when he says^ 

 " there are two churches, the magnificence of whose st*, pies form 

 a striking contrast to the miserable appearance of iLe houses.'^ 

 During the noon service I attended the church. Thewcmen, veiled 

 in their rebozas, sat, after the Turkish fashion, on the bare ground 

 to the right hand side of the aisle. The men stood up, except 

 when the ceremony of the church required them to kneel. They 

 kept on the left hand side of the church. The body of the build- 

 ing is long and narrow; the roof lofty; the ground plan of the form 

 of a cross. Near the altar were two wax figures the size of life, 

 representing hooded friars, with shaved heads, except a crown of 

 short hair that encircled the head like a wreath. One was dressed 

 in blue and the other in white; their garments long and flowing, 

 with knotted girdles around the waist. The wall back of the altar 

 was covered with innumerable mirrors, oil paintings, and bright 

 colored tapestry. From a high window a flood of crimson light, 

 tinged by the curtain it passed through, poured down upon the 

 altar. The incense smoke curled about in the rays, ac'^, in <rrace- 

 ful curves ascending, lent much beauty to the group ouSd the 

 priests, who were all habited in rich garments. There were many 

 ^ax tapers burning, and wild music, from unseen musicians, el 



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