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- 1S55.] 



THE GARDENERS' CHROMlLE 



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right stem. The pruning applicable to these consists 

 in removing:, every year, the over-luxuriant shoots 

 which spring up in the interior of the tree, and also 

 the branches which cross and make confusion. The 

 secondary and lateral branches should be kept in a 

 horizontal direction, or made to form a wide angle with 

 the vertical stem, or with the larger branches. 



If the pruner observe branches that are too near each 

 other he must thin them out, in order that the air may 

 circulate freely, and that the solar rays may have access 

 to produce their beneficial influence on the organs of 

 fructification. If he see that these organs are too 

 numerous, he must cut off part, especially spurs that 

 are clustered, weak, and exhausted from long and 

 abundant bearing. Judicious pruning will invigorate 

 these large trees, and retard the period of their 

 decrepitude. It ou/rht to be borne in mind that the 

 finest and best flavoured fruits are borne on young spurs 

 from vigorous branches, or on the upper part of the 

 vertical stem. In cutting off weak and bad placed 

 branches, the cut is not made level with the bark of the 

 stem or branch left, but only to the basement of the 

 branch cut off [to those projecting rings which may be 

 observed at the bases of lateral branches]. These 

 wounds heal much better if they are immediately 

 covered over with a mixture of clay and cow-dung. 

 Bruised and cankered portions and excrescences should 

 be cut to the quick, and then covered with the above 

 composition. These operations should be performed 

 according to the nature of the soil and the vigour of the 

 tree — before the winter solstice in a dry soil ; and, after 

 the severe frosts are over, in February, where the soil is 

 strong and rather moist. 



Immediately after the trees are pruned they should be 

 cleaned from those insects with which they are usually in- 

 fested, and more especially old trees. Indeed, the older 

 the tree the greater is the number of insects by which it 

 3s attacked. The withered leaves, rolled or stuck on the 

 branches, twigs, or spurs, harbour myriads of insects. 

 The wrinkles between the fruit-buds or in the axils of 

 the ramifications, the small grey rings which surround 

 the fruit-buds, and the larger ones of a bright brown 

 colour which surround the last year's shoots, the nests 

 of every kind which may be observed in the crevices of 

 the old bark of a^ed trees, contain legions of insects 

 known to the entomologist. All these receptacles ought 

 to be carefully removed. The old bark should be 

 scraped off smooth from the trunk, and the latter done 

 over, from top to bottom, with a composition of clay, 

 cow-dung, and about one-third of wood ashes. A first 

 cleaning, carefully performed, will preserve the tree, and 

 the labour in following years will be of less importance. 



If, on the contrary, the cleaning is omitted, all sorts 

 of insects will be hatched at the first flow of sap : some 

 perforate the corolla and devour the ovary of the«young 

 fruit ; others attack the fruit already set, and destroy 

 it ; others cut the shoots, and devour the leaves, 

 destroying the verdure of the tree, the vegetation of 

 which thus receives a mortal stroke in the midst of its 

 spring or early summer development. When we see 

 the fruit drop successively in May, though scarcely set, 

 we must not attribute it solely to the severity of the 

 climate. There are other causes. Has the tree suf- 

 ficient nourishment in the situation in which it is placed ? 

 Have there not been left upon it too many fruit spurs, 

 producing a superabundance of flowers, tending to 

 weaken the productive powers ? In this weak state, is 

 it not possible that insects, if not previously removed, 

 will complete their w r ork of destruction \ Induce good 

 vigour in the tree by pruning and thinning the branches ; 

 keep it clear from insects, and give it as sufficient 

 nourishment as we would to other productions of the 

 soil : in these things consists the great secret of the 

 culture of full-grown Pear trees. 



What is the kind of manure that a full-grown Pear 

 tree requires as nourishment and as a stimulant \ 



I shall confine myself to the practical consideration 

 of this question. The Pear tree, when planted in a 

 kitchen garden, finds, by means of its fibrils, the 

 nutritive substances which it requires. For strong 

 soils, the preference is given to horse-dung mixed with 

 rotten straw. For light soils, on the contrary, cow-dung 

 is given. By the use of horse-dung in strong moist 

 soils the ground is rendered warmer and more porous. 

 On the other hand, the excessive heat of light soils is 

 moderated by cow-dung. It is in these decomposed 

 manures that the spongioles of the roots find the 

 nourishment indispensable for the production of 

 fruit Nightsoil, cow-dung, or other manures in a 

 liquid state likewise produce stimulating effects 

 upon the vegetation of the tree and its products. 

 It is also to be remarked that the Pear tree 

 planted in a kitchen garden always yields fruit, 

 and continues to be tolerably vigorous, provided that 

 the spade in the hands of an ignorant workman does not 

 destroy the upper roots of the trees, and thus neutralise 

 the benefits that otherwise would result from the manure. 

 If the trees are in an orchard where domestic animals 

 are allowed to graze, the same nourishment as in the 

 case of the kitchen garden must be given, otherwise the 

 trees will become barren ; or if they, by chance, bear 

 some fruit, it will be small and without flavour. The 



This general manuring 



in such 

 orchard 



to the nature of the soil. 



should be repeated every two years, and 



quantity as the soil may require. An 



kept for fruit trees only requires stimulating manure 



every year, to the amount of 2.} to 3 bushels for every 



50 square feet. Stimulating manure in a liquid state, 



given in the first fortnight in March, will contribute 



greatly towards starting the trees into a good state of 



vegetation, and will promote the setting of the fruit, 



especially if the trees have been well thinned and cleaned 



from insects. 



It is needless to add that the varieties of Pears planted 

 in an orchard ought to be of a hardy vigorous nature, if 

 we wish to obtain satisfactory results. They ought to 

 be selected from amongst those varieties that are adapted 

 for orchard culture. This important point deserves to 



placing them in a cool moist part of the greenhouse 

 when they become too large for a cold frame. If well 

 managed good large specimens will soon be obtained, 

 which, with careful treatment, will last for several 

 seasons ; but be prepared for the occasional loss of a 

 specimen by having young plants to succeed it. Be 

 careful to keep them perfectly free from red spider, and 

 to keep the soil in proper state as to moisture, giving 

 water only when it is absolutely necessary, and then 

 giving a good soaking. 



The best soil for Podolobiuras is rich turfy peat 

 broken small and liberally mixed with clean sharp silver 

 sand, some small clean potsherds or lumpy bits of char- 

 coal. In potting use plenty of draining materials, and 

 be careful to have the soil in a nice healthy state as to 

 moisture, making it rather firm about the old ball, to 



be treated of ia a special article. J. de Jonglie, B> ssek, J prevent the water passing of/ through it, and never shift 



a plant until it actually requires more pot room, nor 



Dec. 20, 1854. 



PODOLOBIUMS. 



when the roots are not in a healthy active state. Alpha. 



These, when well-managed, are very handsome 



plants, and well worth a place in even select collections. 

 In procuring young plants of any of them from the 

 nursery beginners should be very careful to obtain such 

 as are stocky, healthy, and not under or over-potted ; 

 for any of the Podolobiums will be found to be some- 

 what difficult subjects if they are ever allowed to get 

 into a bad state of health, and of course they should not 

 be purchased in that state. If they are obtained at the 

 present season they will merely require a careful supply 

 of water and a rather airy situation in the greenhouse 

 during winter. Early in March place the young plants 

 in the closest part of the house near the glass, and have 

 soil &c. in readiness to give a shift as soon as it may be 

 necessary ; but defer this until the pots are moderately 

 filled with healthy active ro >ts. After potting water 

 cautiously, keeping the atmosphere rather close and 

 moist, and sprinkling the plants lightly over-head on the 

 afternoons of fine days, in order to encourage the roots 

 to strike into the fresh soil. When fairly established 

 after shifting, a more liberal supply of water will be 

 necessary, but this must still be administered with care, 

 and air should be freely admitted on fine days,but avoid 

 cold drying currents. Plants that have several shoots 

 should have these tied out directly after potting, keeping 

 them thin and the points rather low, in order to induce 

 the back buds to push forward, and those that are at all 

 inclined to be straggling should be stopped as soon as the 

 roots are supposed to have got hold of the fresh soil. 

 As the weather becomes warmer in spring give air 



LIST OF ANNUALS. 



Of different kinds of Annuals we have now a great 

 many in cultivation, and yet their number is ] irly 

 augmented, many of them ranking amongst the rhost 

 showy plants which adorn our flower gardens, whilst 

 others are invaluable for the decoration of our gr eo- 

 houses, &c. My object in furnishing the following 

 selection is not merely to give a list of those which are 

 so well known, such as Nemophila insignis. Clarkia 

 pulchella, and the common Candy-tuft, but to make a 

 few common-place remarks on some of the more rare 

 kinds, or, if not rare, such as are seldom seen in cultiva- 

 tion so much as they deserve to be ; while at the same 

 time any seedsman may supply nearly the whole of 

 them for a very trifling sum. 



Bavtonia anrca. — A showy Californian plant, with 

 rather a straggling habit, and remarkable for its large 

 bright yellow flowers, and numerous long stamens ; it 

 grows from 18 inches to 2 feet in height, and is w ell 

 adapted for patches on borders. 



Baliia latifolia. — This is a strong-growing Californian 

 plant, which branches very much, and rises about 2 ft. 

 in height. Its flowers are star-shaped, of a pale \ellow, 

 and are produced in abundance. It is well adapted for 

 patches. 



Cacalia sonchifolia. — This is a very beautiful East 

 Indian plant, of erect habit ; it grows about a foot ia 

 height, and bears flowers of a golden yellow colour. It 

 is a most desirable plant for patches or beds, and 



requires to be sown thickly. 

 Calandrinia umbdlata is 



height. 



flowers being of a rich rose colour. 



ft 





more freely, and do not through impatience subject th 

 plants to an artificially warm temperature ; for few of 



our greenhouse hard-wooded plants bear anything like throws up numerous scapes 

 forcing, and the Podolobiums are perhaps more impatient 

 of such treatment than most others. About the beginning 

 of May the young plants may be removed to a cold 

 frame, which will be the best possible situation for them 

 during summer. If cold stormy weather occurs after 

 the plants are removed hither, cover the glass at night, 

 and regulate the admission of air during the day so as 

 to prevent their sustaining any check. In fine weather 

 too much air cau hardly be given, and a thin shade 

 should be thrown over the glass on the forenoons of 

 bright days ; also keep the atmosphere moist by fre- 

 quently sprinkling the floor of the pit, and the plants 

 should be lightly syringed every fine afternoon, shutting 

 them up before the sun is quite off the glass, so as to 

 give them a good steaming for the evening, but air 

 should be given before night. Healthy vigorous plants 

 will probably want a second shift by Midsummer, and it 

 will be safer for beginners to give two small shifts in the 

 course of the season than to give a large shift in sprin 

 the second shift should be given as soon as it may be 

 wanted, in order that the plants may get moderately 

 well rooted into it before winter. Attend to the stop- 

 ping of any over-luxuriant shoot and to keeping the 

 shoots nicely tied out, and aim at securing well-placed, 

 useful growth, and not such as will require to be largely 

 cut away next spring. Discontinue shading and sprin- 

 kling over head as soon as the weather becomes cool in 

 autumn, and give the plants the benefit of the night 

 dews, placing the lights when the weather is at all doubt- gona alba, 

 ful so that they will throw off heavy rains. Remove Cema turbinata. — This is a Camomile-like Cape 

 the plants to a light airy situation in the greenhouse ! plant, which flowers most profusely. The flowers are 

 before there is any danger of their suffering from damp \ of 

 or cold ; and during winter give them a careful supply 

 of water at the- root, and turn them partly round at 

 least every fortnight. Also examine the under side of 

 the foliage occasionally for red spider ; and if there are 

 any indications of the presence of this enemy, lay the 

 affected plant on its side on a clean mat, giving the 

 foliage a good washing with the syringe, and let this be 

 repeated as often as may be necessary to thoroughly 

 eradicate this pest In spring the plants should be 

 removed to the warmest part of the house, and moist- 

 ened with the syringe on fine afternoons, to en- 

 courage them to start into growth. See to stopping 

 or cutting back the shoots as may be wanted, re- 

 moving the • flowers as they make their appearance, 

 and treat them during the summer as recommended 



a very dwarf plant, which 

 of blossoms, about 6 inches 

 m ncigut. Its flowers are of a rich glossy red colour. 

 It is a charming little plant, either for rock work, 

 patches, small beds, or pots; it requires to be sown in 

 pots early in spring, as it does not bear transplanting 

 well. It is a native of Chili. 



Calandrinia discolor. — This is also a dwarf Chilian 

 plaut, with thick fleshy leaves. It throws up its 

 racemes of flowers about 12 inches in height, the 



It is well adapted 

 either for patches or beds, and requires the same treat- 

 ment as C. umbel lata. 



Calceolaria clicli< lioides. — This can be had in flower 

 in any season of the year ; it grows about lo inches in 

 height, and produces abundance of pale yellow blossoms, 

 which are, however, of short duration. It is a desirable 

 plant for filling up vacant spaces, as it comes into flower 

 so soon. It was introduced through I. Anderson, Esq., 

 of Edinburgh. 



Campanula {Specular ia) vinceeflora is a pretty plant 



when grown in masses ; it rises about 12 inches in 

 height The flowers, though rather small, are of a 

 deep blue colour, with a white throat, and are produced 

 abundantly. It is a native of New Holland, and is 



altogether a ood thing. 



This much 



Campanula {Specular ia) ntagonia. 



resembles the former in habit, but has larger flowers, of 

 rather a paler c our. It is a native of the Levant* 

 There is a variety with white flowers called C. penta- 



a white colour, and rise about 6 or 8 inches in 

 in ht. It is well adapted for borders or beds, or it 



C. turbinata formosa is 



hei 



would even make nice edgings, 

 a variety with yellow flowers. 



Clintonia pulchella is a delightful little annual, which 

 is not so much cultivated as it should be. It is well 

 adapted for pots, patches, or beds, and is best sown 

 where a gentle heat can be afforded it. It is a native of 

 N. W. America. 



for last season. 



After 



a second season's growth, if 

 all goes on well, they should be nice-sized little sped- 

 turf should be removed round the tree to the distance I mens ; and if they are considered large enough to be 

 Of 2 feet, in order that the air and the sun's rays may worth attention for flowering, let them occupy a c 



produce their beneficial effects upon the roots near the 

 surface. Throughout the winter these should be covered 

 with leaf-mould and various manures suitable to the 

 nature of the soil. At the end of autumn the turf 

 of an orchard should have a top dressing of ashes, lime, 

 rotten horse dung, cow dung, or sheep's dung, according 



g, iec tnem occupy a cool 



part of the greenhouse until after flowering when the 



shoots should receive whatever pruning or training may 



e neces y, keeping the plants rather moist until they 



Coreopsis coronata. — This is a showy plant, with large 

 star-shaped pale yellow flowers, with a purple centre. 

 It grows from 18 inches to 2 feet high, with thin wiry 

 stems, and is of a straggling habit, but m; es a most 

 beautiful bed, or it may be sown in patches. It is a 

 native of Mexico. 



Dlanthus Gardneri is a neat Pink, which throws up 

 its flowers about a foot high. The latter are of a deep 

 red colour, with a fringed edge. It is well worth grow- 

 ing in pots, and forms a beautiful bed through the 



It comes from the south of Europe. 



Eucha am grandijloruui . — This is a pretty plant, 

 which grows ■ ut a foot in height, and has flower* 

 much resembling those of Clarkia pulchella, though 



I 



start into growth, when they should be repotted, treating 

 them dfurin? the remainder of the growing season as 



nearlv as on former vears as circumstances will admit, 



I a i 



er ; it is a most profuse bloomer, and is well 





adapted for heels, patches, or long lines on borders. 



: s a native of North America, 



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