Refraction, bottom friction, and wave breaking contribute to the observed differences in height and 

 period. During the most severe storms when the wave heights exceed 3 m at the seaward end of the 

 pier, the surf zone (wave breaking) has been observed to extend past the end of the pier and occasion- 

 ally 1 km offshore. This occurrence is a major reason for the differences in the distributions between 

 Gage 630 and the inshore gages. The wave height statistics for the staff gage (Gage 645), located at 

 the landward end of the pier, were considerably lower than those for the other gages. In all but the 

 calmest conditions, this gage is within the breaker zone. Consequently, these statistics rq)resent a 

 lower energy wave climate. 



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